Childwall Abbey, by Marstons Inns

Once situated in Duke Street Market, the team from Pilgrim took their time relocating to the suburb of Mossley Hill, but it was well worth the wait. The restaurant has more of a neighbourhood feel now it’s out of the city centre, with a cosy atmosphere and tightly packed tables adding to the intimacy – if you want more of a buzz, sit at the chef’s counter. Small plates and cooking over flames are the tentpoles of a menu that could scarcely be more on trend, with dishes like crispy puntillita squid and punchy aioli.