Kyojuku Usagi - Vacation STAY 46003v

One of Miyawaki’s strengths is the menu’s deft sense of rhythm—white fish tsukuri served with salted kombu, for example, or fruit and yuba made into a smooth surinagashi soup. The use of Kagawa wagyu reflects the chef’s wish to support his home region, featuring in heartier dishes such as charcoal-grilled wagyu and cutlets. The generous number of dishes is another pleasure, and the easy banter between the couple helps put guests at ease. Guests leave feeling both full and content.

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving

Omakase dishes reflect the turning of the seasons; hassun platters convey the month’s events and customs. Dedicated to fresh-from-the-kitchen deliciousness, white rice is served the moment it’s cooked. A generous assortment of accompaniments, such as dried mullet roe, dried baby sardines with pickled plum and savoury seaweed paste, brings joy. ‘Yui’ is short for ‘yuiitsu-muni’, or ‘one and only’. Unique cuisine and unmatched décor captivate diners.

Light dining is the chef’s approach. For the amuse-bouche, the theme is ‘five flavours’. A medley of finger foods adds a playful touch; roast wagyu comes in a clear sauce of beef juices. The meal concludes on a Japanese note, with soba. A soup of vegetable cut ends is poured into the bowl, adding value while ensuring nothing is wasted. The meal weaves abundant experience and creative evolution, unfolding as a biography in food.

After learning the basics at a ryotei, the chef worked at a kappo, where he discovered how to make dining fun. What he finds compelling about being a chef, he says, is that while the food itself is consumed at once and disappears, the occasion lingers in the memory. His ingenuity comes to the fore in Kyoto cuisine rich in dashi and vegetables. Side dishes such as boiled vegetables and ground soup, skilfully served both cold and warm, make for a treat that is simple yet impressive. Rice cooked in clay pots joins items such as preserves simmered in sweetened soy sauce, dried mullet roe and peppe

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.

Coming from a family of vegetable wholesalers, the chef grew up with fond memories of visiting the market. As an apprentice he frequented marketplaces with his mentor, learning how to recognise good produce, listening to wholesalers and forming bonds of trust. Those days spent with his mentor, driving to the market and shopping for ingredients, may have been the origin of Kyoryori Fujimoto. The menu, rich in vegetables, evokes a sense of both season and the people behind the cuisine.