Atour Hotel Zhejiang University East Fengqi Road

This restaurant on a shopping street, with a main dining space on the lower floor and private rooms upstairs, can be tricky to find. Diners come for authentic Ningbo cooking, such as drunken mud whelks, braised vegetables and stir-fried clams in board bean paste with salted potherb mustard greens. Live fish and seafood shipped daily from Zhoushan, Ninghai and Wenzhou are also popular; the steamed river eel in ginger juice has to be pre-ordered.

This household name, famous for home-style Hangzhou cooking, has been around for over 20 years. The dining area occupies two floors, but seating is limited, so expect to queue or share a table at peak hours. The signature cold appetiser of pork kidneys dressed in a sweet tangy sauce is meticulously crafted. Seafood is also their strong suit – try razor clams from the East China Sea sautéed in chilli sauce or scallion oil.

A landmark of Sichuan cooking from Chengdu, this outpost opened in a beautifully restored, 1930s, Shikumen-style residence. In line with the brand’s ethos, the set menus highlight natural flavours courtesy of refined, well-crafted Sichuan dishes that roll out subtle Hangzhou influences. Depending on the season, premium local produce, like seafood from Jiangzhe, re-creates some of the 24 taste profiles that comprise classical Sichuan cuisine.

Embedded in Hangzhou’s collective culinary memory, the predecessor of this simple, friendly joint dates back to the 1990s. The chalkboard menu covers many traditional home-style favourites, with river fish being the speciality. Braised soft-shelled turtle with pickled cabbage boasts gelatinous texture, deep flavours and mild heat. Quick-poached pork kidneys impress with spot-on doneness and snappy texture. Yellow croaker on rice cake is another must-try.

After a recent move, the shop is now tucked away down an alley but is easily found by following the heady aromas of the house specialty: slow-braised lamb in a giant wok with broth and Shaoxing wine until the meat falls off the bone. Thin noodles that cling well to broth and 12-month-old lambs are shipped daily from Tongxiang, Zhejiang. The lamb and offal noodle soup offers free noodle refills or order a side of lamb’s legs and trotters.

For over 20 years, this Hangzhou-style noodle shop has stood out from the competition courtesy of its wide array of toppings, ranging from old-time favourites like shredded pork, pork kidneys and fried eel to more adventurous items such as sliced snakehead fish noodle soup with pickled mustard greens and spices that deliver a fiery, tangy kick. For a sumptuous feast, order marinated chicken’s feet, duck's head or braised ‘lion head’ meatballs on top.

After opening in 2017, Wu Zi shot to fame, becoming the best-known noodle shop in the area. Classic Hangzhou-style noodles are either served in soup or tossed in sauces with various toppings – prepared to the exacting standards of the owner, a chef by profession. The pork kidney and liver are nicely browned while retaining their succulence and a lovely chewiness. Another must-try classic topping: shrimps and eel sautéed with onion, mushrooms and dried tofu.