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Review
05

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DiningSights
1
Maison Rostang
Classic Cuisine · ★★ Michelin
€€€€
Chef Nicolas Beaumann enthusiastically perpetuates the tradition of delicious food that has always been synonymous with this emblematic establishment, albeit while increasingly embracing the modern, as reflected in the newly refurbished dining room. The short à la carte menu and the tasting menus (one of which is plant-based) include poivrade artichoke "in a velouté of its leaves; caper and olive stuffing", their classic pike-perch quenelle with lobster cream, and Bresse chicken with salsify and a yellow wine jus. Pastry chef David Boudinet's sweets also make an impression – for instance, the
1.4km
2
Épisodes
Creative · ★ Michelin
€€€€
As you take a seat in this smart restaurant decked in marble, wood and stone and located in the well-heeled Monceau neighbourhood, you will sample a tasting menu of unabashed modernity that stars outstanding produce and consummate craftsmanship. Suave, delicate dishes like lamb cooked two ways (saddle rare and shredded with mustard seed) and a medley of carrots. Fogo symbolises fire, setting the scene in this urban chic eatery.
1.5km
3
Frédéric Simonin
Modern Cuisine · ★ Michelin
€€€€
Frédéric Simonin learned the ropes in top restaurants and alongside great chefs, from Ledoyen to Le Meurice and Joël Robuchon, before becoming Meilleur Ouvrier de France himself in 2019. Out went the black and white and geometric lines, as he set about creating a venue of his very own, with hardwood floors, white walls and bevelled mirrors. This "Parisian apartment" (in his words) is the perfect foil for his precise, delicate and perfectly balanced cuisine – special mention for his reductions and sauces. There are multi-course tasting menus with a few inventive touches, a great lunch menu and
1.5km
4
Agapé
Modern Cuisine · ★ Michelin
€€€€
In this cosy, welcoming room adorned in soft shades, the menu rolls out a lineup of premium ingredients that depend on the whim of chef Yoshi Nagato (Maison Rostang, Le Cinq, Épicure) and his partner, Asuka Ishiba, in charge of desserts. Brittany lobster salad, wax beans, Piedmont hazelnuts and a dressing of lobster roe; Challans duckling lacquered in honey and Sichuan pepper; roast sweetbread and sautéed girolles… Stylish, high-precision plating and generous helpings. Fine range of organic and natural wines.
1.5km
5
Jacques Faussat
Traditional Cuisine · ★ Michelin
€€€
Jacques Faussat, born in Gers and proud of it, clearly aspires to the simplicity of his childhood roots. A simplicity also passed down by Michel Guérard and above all, Alain Dutournier. Jacques’ meeting with the latter, also born in Gers, proved to be decisive in his career, starting with ten years spent in the kitchen of the Trou Gascon. He sign flavoursome cuisine made with intelligently crafted produce in a bid to nurture the flavours and aromas. Eater-friendly prices.
1.6km
6
Pierre Gagnaire
Creative · ★★★ Michelin
€€€€
In an interior dominated by a masterful charcoal work, an "urban cave painting" depicting a bestiary by the artist Adel Abdessemed, Pierre Gagnaire continues to finetune France’s culinary scene with his adventurous, wholehearted and excessive signature cuisine. This fan of jazz and contemporary art never rests on his laurels. Gagnaire's restaurant, which has had three stars since 1996, reflects his character: modern, understated and subtly sophisticated, all of which is in perfect harmony with the service. The poetic dishes are constantly reinvented, like small "satellite" portions sent into o
2.3km
7
Le Faham
Modern Cuisine · ★ Michelin
€€€
The faham is an orchid native to the island of Réunion, famous for its subtle almond scent. Kelly Rangama (2017 Top Chef contestant) chose this flower to symbolise her civil and culinary union with pastry chef Jérôme Devreese and their joint creation: this sleek, elegant restaurant tucked away in the Batignolles district. Here the chef rolls out a culinary patchwork that abounds in vibrancy and delicacy, spicy but always subtle, with an exotic edge that makes all the difference. An example: tandoori-style monkfish, followed by a wickedly decadent poached rhubarb, ginger and mango sorbet and a
1.7km
8
Mallory Gabsi
Modern Cuisine · ★ Michelin
€€€€
A semi-finalist of France’s 2020 Top Chef show, Brussels-born Mallory Gabsi loves to cook. He communicates his enthusiasm through a varied, savvy score that astutely balances acidic and bitter notes. This refreshing wind of culinary audacity contrasts with the establishment’s plush, muted interior that is reminiscent of a luxurious ocean liner of yesteryear thanks to pale varnished marquetry, wool-upholstered seating and Art deco wall lamps… Gabsi, the darling of a new generation of foodies, signs a “Turquoise Menu” (his favourite colour) scattered with succulent nods to his homeland (such as
1.8km
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