ArtinnKunming

With an understated façade, this place feels like a hidden gem for those in the know. The tearoom-like lobby leads into a minimalist dining room where a brightly lit open kitchen takes centre stage. The menu celebrates Japanese culinary culture, but with the odd Taiwanese twist and global influences. From shirako with bottarga to mussel noodles and wood-fired pigeon, every course is a beauty to behold and a delight to taste.

This household name on the beef noodle scene has been building up a loyal following since 1949. The broth is slow cooked with beef bones and a blend of 10 Chinese herbs. Its exceptional flavour and depth perfectly complement the delicious ribbon noodles, which are hand-pulled to order. The tender local and Aussie beef is of course a highlight. Cold sides such as pork ear in aspic and pickled cabbage are made fresh daily.

Now run by the third generation, this family shop is known for its authentic Tainan street food. Made from scratch daily, the must-try stewed pork belly shows alternate layers of fat and meat and comes with dried radish, pickles, cucumber and marinated dried tofu on a bed of steamed Tainan rice. The complex, aromatic sauce goes down a treat with the rice. The pork is just as good in gua bao sandwich. The madou rice cake tends to sell out early, so pre-order by phone.

Formerly a members-only dining club, it excites not by its decor, but by shrewdly executed Huaiyang and Sichuan classics, alongside Taiwanese favourites. The veteran head chef cuts back on oil and salt without sacrificing flavour. The main room is quiet and spacious; private rooms are perfect for banquets. Arrive early if you wish to enjoy a long lunch.

A 60-year-old shop selling buns stuffed with marinated pork belly, pickles, ground peanuts and coriander.

After starting out as a street stall in the night market over 45 years ago, it has since morphed into a full-blown restaurant with a bright, spruce interior. The room is filled with the heady aromas of its signature item – ‘black gold’ braised pork rice with a gelatinous sauce that tastes savoury-sweet. The rice goes well with stewed cabbage that cuts through the richness. Minced pork and pickled cucumber in broth are bouncy in texture and loaded with flavour. As well as minced pork and pickled cucumber in broth, try their steamed rice with ‘black gold’ pork sauce.

Chef Paul Lee leads a talented young kitchen team in presenting a tasting menu that elevates Taiwanese street food to the level of haute cuisine. Asian and European flavours mingle harmoniously in refined dishes made with quality local produce and imported ingredients are perfected by modern techniques. Non-alcoholic beverage pairings by the mixology virtuoso enhance the experience. On top of the tasting menu, add-ons are available.