HOTEL ARROWS ARASHIYAMA

Standing on the grounds of Tenryuji Temple, a World Heritage site, the restaurant presents the vegetarian diet that is part of Buddhist training. Arranging cuisine on vermilion-lacquered plates reflects Zen convention. Every dish is nourishing, from sesame tofu and deep-fried tofu mixed with vegetable slices to dressed vegetables. To live is to eat, to give thanks to life, to cherish the moment. The Zen spirit of harmony with nature breathes within these walls.

A procession of dishes that linger in the diner’s memory. Seasonal flavours are used in generous measure, such as Japanese pepper flower, pike conger, matsutake mushrooms and crab. Preparation methods, whether that be grilling, boiling or more, are astutely tailored to each ingredient, showcasing its qualities from every angle. This talent for bringing out the best in food is born of long years of experience. A favourite haunt of the literati, the Uozuya sign calligraphy is by essayist Masako Shirasu.

‘Fujitora’ is a blend of the chef’s name and that of the shop where he apprenticed, created to bring luck. It was his mentor’s ramen that inspired him to embark on his current path. The techniques he cultivated and his inquisitive mind shine in his chicken-and-pork soup. The chef prepares this soup in a large stockpot in the kitchen, patiently teasing every drop of umami from the ingredients. Sauce for soy-sauce ramen is created from a medley of soy sauces to harmonise with the soup.

Tozentei takes its name from a fictitious restaurant in a novel. ‘Tozen’ means ‘tipsy,’ a state of being slightly and comfortably under the influence; the name invites guests to find pleasure in both tucker and tipple. The fabric of human relations in this family-run restaurant exudes a feel of immersion in a cheerful TV drama or story. Tilefish steamed with plums and kombu consummately combines the flavour of the fish flesh with the tartness of dried plums. Tozentei is located close to Tenmangu, a shrine famous for the plum trees beloved by the poet and statesman Sugawara no Michizane. The co

Meika Hoshino breathes her own creativity into Korean royal court cuisine, which she studied in Seoul. Prix fixe offerings follow ‘yakushoku-dogen’, the idea that diet has an essential role in maintaining good health. The double-tiered food box filled with multi-coloured items is an inspiration drawn from Korea’s courtly dining tables. Namul and kimchi are prepared with Kyoto vegetables; cuisine from the early Joseon dynasty comes from a time before chilli peppers were introduced. A dialogue between traditional cooking and modern sensibility brings Korean culinary culture to a wider audience.

The chef has been researching the deliciousness of ramen since he was a schoolboy. In search of a unique flavour, he made ‘Scallop and Japanese Pepper Ramen’ his signature dish. Soup of dashi drawn from chicken, pork and seafood is multilayered and satisfying. The finished Japanese pepper oil imparts a refreshing feeling, and the generous topping of scallop is pure luxury. A carefully calibrated bowl of goodness that is the gift of repeated independent study.

Light dining is the chef’s approach. For the amuse-bouche, the theme is ‘five flavours’. A medley of finger foods adds a playful touch; roast wagyu comes in a clear sauce of beef juices. The meal concludes on a Japanese note, with soba. A soup of vegetable cut ends is poured into the bowl, adding value while ensuring nothing is wasted. The meal weaves abundant experience and creative evolution, unfolding as a biography in food.