Ryokan Hinomoto Kyoto Kawaramachi

The name ‘Roan’ derives from a Zen expression meaning ‘clear and unambiguous, hiding nothing’. To ensure the complete transparency of his work at Kikunoi, Yoshiharu Murata does all his food preparation in front of guests, at the counter. The opportunity to take in the dynamic activity in the kitchen while dining sets Roan apart from the flagship restaurant, a ryotei. Chatting with chefs as you enjoy dishes fresh from the kitchen is one of the pleasures of the kappo.

Playful-hearted fare and amiable service keep the establishment packed evening after evening. In the spirit of blending Western and Japanese styles, Koichi Maekawa dons chef’s whites and pipes light jazz over speakers. His credo is that food should be fun, so his roving imagination goes above and beyond Japanese, Chinese, and Western traditions. The all-wood interior and vaulted ceiling exude warmth, evoking a houseboat. With Maekawa as skipper and his chefs as the crew, this ‘ship’ keeps passengers smiling and rides a wave of popularity.

Situated on the south side of Kennin-ji Temple, the restaurant looks out on Yasaka Pagoda. Pass through the elegant gate, have a seat in the waiting area, and relax in the courtyard cooled with sprinkled water. The proprietor welcomes guests with the four-fold etiquette of the wabi-cha school of tea ceremony: harmony, respect, purity and tranquillity. In cuisine, he prizes the five unseen senses, with care paid to light, sound, temperature, fragrance and taste. Even the water is steeped in history, tradition and the four seasons. Unseen yet deep and strong are the roots of Kyoto culture here.

The cobblestone street where the Kaburenjo Theatre of traditional dance is located is lined with teahouses and geisha houses, lending the quarter a distinctive air of elegance. Here in the crossroads of performing art and that is Miyagawacho, the restaurant seems at first glance to break the mould. Yet the inclusion of familiar beef cutlet in the procession of less conventional fare feels somehow nostalgic. Cuisine unbound by convention and the handiwork of the reliable chef delight the spirit.

The prix fixe selection of numerous small dishes borrows an idea from Spanish tapas. Playful presentation and gorgeous arrangements upgrade Italian cuisine to a modern interpretation. The open kitchen is a stage, the semicircular counter the theatre’s front row. White serving-ware matches the white interior and the whole dining room feels like a canvas, a space to be filled by bright and colourful cuisine.

The interior’s keynote black bespeaks modern dining; the cuisine, modern Chinese with further innovations, confirms the impression. The concept of Chinese-French fusion cuisine adds uniqueness, exemplified by the foie gras sandwiched between two thin, crisp wafers redolent with Shaoxing wine. Use of decompression cooking and liquid nitrogen ensure that ingredients retain all their flavour. Advanced methods give rise to new directions in cuisine.

‘Strive for simplicity, elevated by technique’ is the chef’s credo. Prizing seasonal flavours above all, he visits production areas the length and breadth of Japan. At first glance, the food arrangements and serving-ware appear ordinary, but each detail reveals the meaning of Japanese cuisine and patiently cultivated skill. Experience the graceful culture and hospitality of the tea ceremony, learned at a long-established ryokan, in a counter dining setting.