Cerise Valence

The first thing to mention about Maison Pic (in the Drôme département of southeast France) is its special atmosphere. An artfully lit room designed to cast light on the dishes, floral creations, a thick carpet that muffles the steps of a front-of-house team dressed in classic attire. Here, they serve food the old-fashioned way, on a porcelain plate under a cloche. The lofty culinary obsessions of a chef who has been dubbed "the tightrope walker of flavours" – adulation of Japan, original presentations – make themselves felt in the dishes. Anne-Sophie Pic now serves a single set menu with seven

In the lower part of Valence, this hidden gem is the contemporary lair of Japanese chef Masashi Ijichi. He crafts a fine, delicate repertory, underscored by a succulent encounter between the Drôme region and inspired flashes of Asia. A few examples: pumpkin soup with sea urchin, avocado and prawn toast and an ethereal dessert of oranges, vanilla and walnuts. Outstanding wine list including a superb selection of northern Côtes du Rhône wines.

Masashi Ljichi, chef of La Cachette, has made his dream come true in this wholehearted, flavoursome bistro, whose name pays homage to a former shuttle (bac) that used to cross the Rhône by way of a cable (traille). The accent is on big-boned bistronomic flavours and deft craftsmanship. Market-fresh cuisine and crisp plating, packed in punchy, heroic flavours. Fine selection of regional vintages. Knockout value for money.

It is worth going out of your way to come to this restaurant with a simple, welcoming decor and a wine bar atmosphere. At the helm, Breton chef Maxime Le Maux serves up an affordable lunch formule, plus a few well-thought-out daily specials. In the evening, a more elaborate set menu is added, along with tapas and platters for sharing. Ingredients are local and seasonal: Ardèche trout, vegetables from the Rhône Valley, sheep's cheese. The modern cuisine shows flashes of inventiveness, as is the case with the chef's wonderful take on carbonara, featuring white and green asparagus – as original a

Chef Maxime Szczepaniak, who switched from construction to cooking, taught himself the trade during lockdown and then went on to hone his skills in prestigious star establishments, clearly lives life to the full. He has set up shop in a listed stone house in the centre of the village, whose pared-down interior with exposed stone walls and polished concrete floors also hosts exhibitions by local artists. First and foremost, however, it is the setting for vibrant cuisine, whose surprise menu zooms in on local produce: stuffed courgette flowers, pike-perch and asparagus, lake trout with watercres

This restaurant in Valence is the brainchild of Louis Chabran, who serves South American cuisine prepared by bona fide Latin-American chefs. The menu opens with a selection of tapas – from pimientos to tacos de pollo, croquetas de chorizo – to whet the appetite, followed by dishes with bold flavours, such as sea bream ceviche with leche de tigre or grilled swordfish served with a cream of sun-dried tomatoes, flaked almonds and smoked aubergine caviar. Spices and exotic flavours are introduced with a delicate touch. A selection of cocktails and mocktails completes the experience in a relaxed at

The Pic family’s André bistro unveils a dialogue between tradition and modernity depicted by a spot-on score and bolstered by a truly outstanding wine cellar, courtesy of the gastronomic parent establishment, and high-flying sakes. The family’s heritage is celebrated with Jacques's mosaic of red mullet and foie gras and his orange-laced iced soufflé. Local trout gravlax is dotted with veggie and spicy touches, half-way between a vibrant tribute and fresh new start.