Kyoto Machiya Saikyo-Inn

Meika Hoshino breathes her own creativity into Korean royal court cuisine, which she studied in Seoul. Prix fixe offerings follow ‘yakushoku-dogen’, the idea that diet has an essential role in maintaining good health. The double-tiered food box filled with multi-coloured items is an inspiration drawn from Korea’s courtly dining tables. Namul and kimchi are prepared with Kyoto vegetables; cuisine from the early Joseon dynasty comes from a time before chilli peppers were introduced. A dialogue between traditional cooking and modern sensibility brings Korean culinary culture to a wider audience.

Light dining is the chef’s approach. For the amuse-bouche, the theme is ‘five flavours’. A medley of finger foods adds a playful touch; roast wagyu comes in a clear sauce of beef juices. The meal concludes on a Japanese note, with soba. A soup of vegetable cut ends is poured into the bowl, adding value while ensuring nothing is wasted. The meal weaves abundant experience and creative evolution, unfolding as a biography in food.

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.

‘Fujitora’ is a blend of the chef’s name and that of the shop where he apprenticed, created to bring luck. It was his mentor’s ramen that inspired him to embark on his current path. The techniques he cultivated and his inquisitive mind shine in his chicken-and-pork soup. The chef prepares this soup in a large stockpot in the kitchen, patiently teasing every drop of umami from the ingredients. Sauce for soy-sauce ramen is created from a medley of soy sauces to harmonise with the soup.

The chef has been researching the deliciousness of ramen since he was a schoolboy. In search of a unique flavour, he made ‘Scallop and Japanese Pepper Ramen’ his signature dish. Soup of dashi drawn from chicken, pork and seafood is multilayered and satisfying. The finished Japanese pepper oil imparts a refreshing feeling, and the generous topping of scallop is pure luxury. A carefully calibrated bowl of goodness that is the gift of repeated independent study.

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving

One of Miyawaki’s strengths is the menu’s deft sense of rhythm—white fish tsukuri served with salted kombu, for example, or fruit and yuba made into a smooth surinagashi soup. The use of Kagawa wagyu reflects the chef’s wish to support his home region, featuring in heartier dishes such as charcoal-grilled wagyu and cutlets. The generous number of dishes is another pleasure, and the easy banter between the couple helps put guests at ease. Guests leave feeling both full and content.