Mugenzaka by Tranova

Ensui means ‘flame and water’, celebrating the two starting points of Japanese cuisine: charcoal flame and water for soup stock. The pride of the house is its stew. Using water brought all the way from Kagoshima, dashi stock is drawn from aged kombu and high-grade bonito flakes. The soup ingredients are suffused with the aroma of charcoal, completing the theme. With the practiced hands of a craftsman, the chef weaves the soup ingredients and the soup broth into a harmonious whole. A natural curiosity drives him to scour producing regions for the best ingredients. A personal journey expressed t

The names of producers the chef deals with are listed on the menu. He visits his suppliers, building bonds of trust with farmers and fishermen. The chef brings each dish fresh from kitchen to table and describes it with enthusiasm, building a bridge linking food, guests and restaurant. Prix fixe meals are modern in preparation while classic in concept. A unique touch is that different breads are paired with different dishes, pursuing unity of flavour between the two.

Kaoru Aihara is a veteran of fish cuisine with an inquiring mind. Depending on the fish, he may break apart the fibres, transform the fish oils, add umami or increase complexity even to the aroma. His ‘Charcuterie of the Sea’ appetiser explores the possibilities of fish through French culinary technique. Immerse yourself in the story of fish through the geography of Japan, a land surrounded by ocean.

The name is French: saucer used as a verb, to pour sauce or to drizzle sauce on bread. The standard fare is what the chef terms ‘saucer’: freshly baked bread on one plate and a sauce on the other. Consommé drawn over a period of three days is a key ingredient. Morel mushrooms in spring and sweetfish in summer impart seasonal flavours. As an apprentice, the chef was appointed saucier, sauce master; his confidence shines in his work today.

The dim interior suggests the depths of the ocean—the abyss—or the deep green of the forest. Pursuing the theme of ‘sea and mountain’, seafood and vegetables are combined in dishes that convey the bounty of Japan’s seas. The chef first understood the appeal of seafood while staying in Marseilles. Land and sea are united by the turning seasons; the clear streams of mountain uplands become rivers below. This is the eternal cycle by which the land is replenished and the ocean is refreshed. The laws of nature expressed in cooking.

The appetiser is a seafood charcuterie: squid and mussels dressed in aioli, finely minced raw horse mackerel, and dried chub mackerel. Be sure to try the speciality, bouillabaisse with a rich seafood flavour, and mix it rice with the leftover soup to make risotto. This is a bistro for enjoying seafood to your heart’s content, although the mains include meat dishes as well.

‘Muku’ means ‘immaculate; innocent; pure’. The keynote white of the interior and the focus on the inherent flavours of ingredients are hallmarks of Tatsuki Mishima’s approach. In his native Shimane Prefecture, the chef worked at a fishmonger’s to learn about fish. He now gets his crab, abalone and rosy sea perch from that very shop, deepening relations between the two. Takikomi-gohan (rice dish seasoned with soy sauce and boiled with various ingredients) is followed by somen noodles or curry to fine-tune the palate. Tradition preserved, but with a playful spirit.