Exsaison House Imamiya 102

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

The nameplate features calligraphy by Teiichi Yuki, a visionary who helped elevate the status of Japanese cuisine. The second-generation chef upholds the spirit that Yuki, founder of the Kitcho group, inherited from his mentor. The menu reflects the beauty of the seasons and conveys the culture of Japan. Gorgeous hassun appetiser platters incorporate elements of seasonal celebrations, placing traditional culinary craftmanship on full display. Inside the house, which is built in the tea ceremony room style, the decor is simple and rustic. The aesthetics of Japanese cuisine live and breathe in u

This is the place to sample modern Mexican cuisine. Respect for the traditions of the motherland are palpable as Japanese ingredients and modern techniques move the genre forward. Corn, the staple food, along with cacao and chili peppers, is sourced from Mexico, and, following tradition, the food is cooked over a wood-fired grill. Milpa is the name in the Nahuatl (Aztec) language for a farming system that enriches the earth; the chef likens cooking techniques to farming, cultivating a new Mexican culinary culture in Osaka.

The stately tea-house interior and Japanese-style painting of the spray from a waterfall enfold guests in an atmosphere of tranquillity. Proclaiming a no-nonsense approach to sushi, the two chefs restrict seasoning and other preparations to the bare minimum. They add no sugar to the sushi rice, the better to draw out the natural sweetness of fish and rice. Tuna is marinated in soy sauce only briefly; conger eel dressed in sauce that is only slightly sweet. As they form sushi by hand, both chefs focus on the basics of rice, wasabi, vinegar and fish.

Dreaming up cuisine that matches the food to the guest is the mission of this Naniwa kappo. The menu’s called ‘Yuno’s omakase’ proclaiming a free-and-easy approach that strays from the norms of Japanese cuisine. Sashimi assortments are paired with onion dipping sauce or condiments; grilled items are dressed with vegetable sauces. Fishbone broth used in hot-pot fare attests to the restaurant’s spirit of wasting nothing. Come to enjoy the chef’s playful spirit and flavours of Osaka expressed through quality ingredients.

Hanging in the kitchen is a framed calligraphy motto bearing the phrase ‘Hakuraku no ikko’ -a reference to distinguishing true quality. It reflects the chef’s wish to keep improving so as to earn the respect of his diners. For the chefs, the plain wood counter is the stage on which they perform as one cohesive unit. Food and dishware captivate with seasonal combinations. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing: beauty sculpted from the bounty of land and sea, where both rich and light coexist. Guests here are welcomed with carefully prepared dishes.

The owner-chef teases out subtle flavours with a versatile sensibility and technique honed in Kyoto. He takes particular care when blending his dashi. Prepared with a light flavour, it draws out the character of each ingredient. Flavours of other ingredients transfer to the dashi in wanmono, steamed items and takiawase, lending depth to their taste. Preparations are simple, yet unseen tweaks make each item unique. Admire antique serving-ware and vessels fashioned by modern artists as you savour the tastes of the season.