Randor Residence Kyoto Nijo Castle

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving

Alexis Moko polished his skills in Paris and London before decamping to Kyoto. Encountering an old merchant’s house that had once served as a dietary school, he opened a restaurant where he could express his knowledge of French cuisine through Japanese ingredients. Moko makes the most of the freshness of vegetables from nearby Ohara while ageing fish and meat in a curing warehouse to amplify umami. Dishes inspired by classic cuisine are dressed generously in sauces to create a light, refreshing touch.

Generous portions give satisfaction, while ingenious ingredient combinations make simple presentations all the more impressive. To learn about fish, the chef spent time working at a fishmonger’s. Fish is prepared simply—freshly sliced, grilled or deep-fried—yet with clever twists as befits a connoisseur. The meal concludes with white Omi rice grown by the chef’s uncle in Hira, served steaming in Shigaraki clay pots. With his friendly demeanour, the chef is often seen deep in conversation with guests.

The chef brings out the best in seasonal ingredients to conjure simple, tasty fare. Early morning market visits, part of his daily routine, furnish the ingredients that inspire ideas for his kitchen. Pasta of sweetfish and crab, simmered in their own broth, express the candid flavours of the season. Wines that bring out the flavours of each dish are part of the appeal of Vena. Ask the sommelier about the house’s range of finely aged wines.

The owner and chef are a picture of brisk motion behind the counter. Offerings range from simple fare to more elaborate dishes, so everyone can choose something they fancy. Soups of ground vegetables and fruit mark each season. Potato salad is served Mirei-style: adding cucumber pickled in rice bran. Nama-fu (a steamed mixture of wheat gluten and rice flour) baked with blue cheese shows the house’s playful side. When a single dish is prepared, the owner asks if we’d like him to split it for us—a considerate touch.

This creative cuisine reflects the chef’s gastronomic journey. Spanish and French techniques find application in recipes from Okinawa, where the chef was born and raised. A tapa named ‘Ryukyubon’ is one example. This version of a dish from the Ryukyu royal court is arranged on Yachimun pottery and served on a Ryukyu lacquer tray. Purees and sauces form tracks drizzled atop asado grilled over wood or charcoal in a stone oven.

The colour scheme speaks of immaculate purity. The white interior is refreshing; the blank spaces left in the arrangements bring clarity of focus. Eager to share the attractions of his hometown with the world, the chef largely gets his ingredients from Shimane Prefecture. Seafood arrives from former classmates; fruit from farmers for his desserts. The style is Italian-based cuisine made with Japanese foodstuffs, bringing the delicious taste of quality ingredients to the fore.