Hotel Sanrriot Osaka honmachi - Vacation STAY 21229v

Out of childhood experiences and the landscapes of rural valleys, the chef creates cuisine that reverberates in all five senses. The spectacle of colourful arrangements, the sound and texture of each bite, the aroma, and of course the taste all harmonise and sizzle as one course follows another. The couple who run the kitchen deliver an illustrated message to the table as a sign of the season.

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

Staff welcome guests with sprinkled water to banish defilement and with incense to purify the space. The restaurant serves tempura kaiseki featuring bounty of land and sea. Wanmono and sashimi are prepared with orthodox Japanese cuisine in mind; tempura is thinly battered and served one piece at a time. Handmade sweets and tea draw the meal to a close. Like leaves that change throughout the year, the choice of serving vessels and ingredients expresses the seasons.

A willow tree bending to describe an arc is the symbol of the restaurant and the meaning of its name. In this modern sukiya-type interior, the arc bends toward a wickerwork ceiling. Koryu’s location on the river’s edge reminds you that Osaka is known as the ‘City of Water’. The aim of the house is to be true to its Naniwa (Osaka) roots. The sumptuously arranged “Naniwa” sashimi platter is a remarkable sight. Traditional vegetables also befit the Osaka cuisine. Like the willow tree, Koryu applies a supple creative spirit to a solid foundation.

At the start of the 21st century, when the ‘modern Spanish’ trend began, the chef was accumulating experience in Madrid and San Sebastián. Today he parlays Spain’s cuisine of many small dishes into a modern prix fixe menu. Refined tapas, arroz suffused with regional character and plancha-grilled items, flamed to bring out the natural flavour of each foodstuff, showcase the pride the chef takes in his work.

Hanging in the kitchen is a framed calligraphy motto bearing the phrase ‘Hakuraku no ikko’ -a reference to distinguishing true quality. It reflects the chef’s wish to keep improving so as to earn the respect of his diners. For the chefs, the plain wood counter is the stage on which they perform as one cohesive unit. Food and dishware captivate with seasonal combinations. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing: beauty sculpted from the bounty of land and sea, where both rich and light coexist. Guests here are welcomed with carefully prepared dishes.

The name is a mashup of the name of the couple who founded the restaurant and the phrase ‘bumbu-ryodo’, ‘accomplished in both literary and military arts’. The phrase expresses the spirit of the chef, who devotes himself to both cooking and service. The third-generation chef commands the kitchen, guarding the flavours inherited from the first. Unmoved by an age that craves all things new, the chef passes on the handiwork and cuisine of the good old days. The simmered vegetable assortment is one example. With skilful knife work and carefully calibrated addition of dashi, the chef brings guests t