Mercure Chiang Mai

Tucked away in a quiet alley, this wooden Lanna-style restaurant has been around for over a decade. It stands in a garden and has open-air and indoor tables, plus private pavilions. The menu showcases the gamut of Northern Thai cuisine, from fiery dips to herby soups. Two recommendations are the spicy galangal dip with steamed mushrooms for its sweetness and aroma, and the spicy vegetable soup with serpent-head fish: fragrant, earthy and perfectly balanced.

With just four large communal tables, Magnolia Café is a simple, cosy spot enlivened by bold colours, vintage décor, and chandeliers. The owner-chef’s exquisite personal collection is on display, and she pays meticulous attention to sourcing high-quality ingredients, some from overseas. Their à la carte menu offers tasty, well presented fare from across Thailand. Dishes are distinguished by vivid, gutsy flavours; fried sun-dried squid with peanut sauce and fresh watermelon with desiccated salmon are exemplars. A complimentary pandan pudding is offered, making for a sweet and satisfying finish.

First-timers should order the plain crispy roti with condensed milk to start. The roti dough here is uniquely made without eggs, but slowly cooked to a crispy-chewy perfection in coconut oil. Choose from 20 toppings.

This place specialises in Guay Jub with Sai Ua sausage, served in a unique peppery broth, featuring with crispy pork and pork liver. They also offer another delightful dish: fresh spring rolls, topped with sliced omelette and aromatic sauce.

Located opposite Wat Ket Karam, this humble gem of a shop specialises in khao kriap pak mo – steamed rice dumplings with a truly generous drizzle of fresh coconut milk – and neatly wrapped tapioca dumplings brimming with sweet and savoury pork and peanut.

Since 2004, Doctor Sai has been serving pan-Thai dishes, including royal fare, following recipes from her mother, Saiyud, a former cooking instructor, in a setting reminiscent of dining at home. Start with an elegant appetiser like fried prawns and peanuts in an egg net, flower dumplings, or deep-fried pork wrapped in egg noodles. By dessert – try the sweet potato in syrup – you’ll guess this home, with its warm service, belongs to a royal from a bygone era.

For decades, this spot has been drawing in loyal fans with its tue ka ko – crispy deep-fried taro with sweet chilli sauce and peanuts. Light, fresh and never greasy, each batch is made to order. The fried tofu is also worth trying. Open only until they sell out, so come early.