The Railway Tavern Hotel

In the middle of an ersatz-industrial space sits a horseshoe-shaped counter with 18 seats, allowing diners to see ‘behind’ the scenes. Every seat has a view of the chefs in action and it is they who serve the dishes and explain their construction and make-up with palpable pride. The surprise seasonal menu consists of around 10 contrasting and creative courses. The focus is on seafood and dishes could include brill with black pudding, Orkney scallops with smoked kipper cream, and delicious Sicilian red prawns. As everyone is served together, it’s important to arrive on time.

There’s no paper menu handed out at this cosy little spot tucked away in a parade of shops off Dalston High Road; just trust the chefs in the open kitchen who’ll produce an intriguing, enjoyable and fairly priced set dinner that’ll leave you feeling sated and contented. The chefs know their butchery and make good use of techniques like pickling and fermenting. Aged Cornish mackerel could be followed by almond anolini; lamb can feature firstly as a broth and then as three different cuts. Consider going for the pairing of natural wines.

‘Malaysian Heat + Juicy Wines’ is the strapline of Vanessa Fernandes and Abby Lee’s restaurant – that means exhilarating dishes inspired by Abby's family recipes, alongside natural wines. Start with the terrific '100+ Sour' cocktail and then order plenty of the delicious food to share. While the menu changes frequently, expect eminently satisfying dishes like Otak-Otak prawn toast or squid stuffed with pork belly mince – and don’t ignore the Kerabu section. There's a great atmosphere around the room and there are also a few seats on a semi-covered terrace at the back.

There’s always a certain joyfulness to family owned and run restaurants – and Miga is truly a family affair, with dad running things in the open kitchen and the younger generation looking after guests in the bright, airy room. If you want to find out more about them, check out the family history as described on the wall outside. ‘A modern take on Korean cuisine’ is their tagline and this is borne out by fresh-tasting dishes like delicious soy-braised short ribs – already a fans’ favourite – and spicy noodles with crispy beef jeon. The generous prices, especially at lunch, allow for enthusiasti

‘A little piece of France in Wanstead’ is the tagline at this busy and welcoming neighbourhood bistro – and it certainly delivers on the promise. The extensive menu is a roll-call of classic French dishes from escargots and soupe à l’oignon to coq au vin and steak frites. They prove to be impressively executed too, providing satisfying flavours at fair prices. A startlingly good value 'prix fixe' is available throughout the day Tuesday to Thursday and for lunch only on Friday and Saturday.

The appealing, Eastern Mediterranean-influenced menu at Chef-Owner Oded Oren’s bustling little bistro is made up of enticing sharing plates, with many ingredients cooked over charcoal, such as lamb loin, succulent chicken skewer and hispi cabbage with muhammara. Start with the delicious stone-baked flatbread and then around five dishes between two should suffice. The prices are kept fair and that includes the well-made cocktails, while the service team are delightful. There’s lots of fun to be had here.

Rafael Cagali, chef-owner of Da Terra, named his second restaurant, located in the Town Hall Hotel, after Brazilian jazz singer Elis Regina. The bright and lively 12-tabled room on the first floor reflects Rafael’s Italian and Brazilian heritage, so expect to see sharing dishes like 'bolinhos de bacalhau' vie with panzanella salad, and picanha skewer with crab linguini.