Chapter 127

A devotee of the goddess Mazu, the owner-chef picked this space near the Grand Mazu Temple for his venture. Motifs of the goddess are dotted throughout the restaurant, from its sign to the shrine-inspired décor. Home-style cooking is kicked up a notch with a touch of sophistication. Leafy greens deftly meld the depth and umami of the fresh, salted and thousand-year egg trio. Try the squid and whelk soup, a classic banquet dish rarely found in Tainan. Closed during Mazu festivities.

Over 70 years ago, a stall opened by a small park and the owner would sit on a tiny stool to blanch the noodles, to be tossed in pork sauce or served in soup. Nowadays, the park no longer exists, but the owner still sits on a stool like the old days. Soup noodles are recommended – silky, al dente thin egg noodles in a flavoursome broth, topped with velvet shrimps and braised minced pork. Do order sides or braised dishes on top.

Splitting from Fu Sheng Hao, a household name in the realm of Taiwanese savoury rice pudding known as wagui, the owner started Yi Wei Pin in 2013 to amplify his grandpa’s culinary legacy. Much darker in colour than its Taipei counterparts, the wagui is made with local rice milk, freshly slaughtered pork, velvet shrimps and house-braised ground pork sauce. Try it with washabi or minced garlic also. Their milkfish thick soup is also popular.

The owner had been selling fried eels and squids for ages before he started serving migao by chance in 1985. Surprisingly, his sticky rice topped with braised pork, sliced cucumber, fish floss and peanut quickly surpassed his original offerings in popularity – and he has focused on migao and sishen herbal soup ever since. The gravy on his migao has a peppery aroma to go alongside the rich and deep flavours.

A household name for over 60 years, Amei was remodelled when it moved to this venue. Red tablecloths add colour to the wood-rich interior. The small menu is big on banquet classics and century-old recipes, combining the natural umami of ingredients with the locals’ love of savoury-sweet dishes. Rou mi xia is a thick broth of diced veggies topped with deep-fried whiskered velvet shrimps from Anping. Ask about items that need pre-ordering when booking.

Fu Tai Table began as a street vendor over 80 years ago, but not until 2015 did it have a permanent address. It's the perfect place to experience the unique fan zhuo zai culture – diners order a bowl of braised pork rice with several small plates that arrive at the table stacked on top of each other on a tray. Look for the menu on the blackboard. Made fresh daily, the soup with assorted meatballs is also worth trying for its bouncy texture and deep umami.

This quaint red-brick mansion built circa 1846 has been home to an omakase restaurant serving traditional Taiwanese banquet dishes since 2015. The room was carefully restored to its former glory, befitting the old-time recipes the head chef got hooked on. For a flat fee per person, your party will be served seven dishes and one soup, all made with local seasonal ingredients like milkfish from Cigu and rice from Houbi. Reservations are mandatory.