First Cabin Shinbashi Atagoyama

Sometimes our connections intervene to change our lives. Harutaka Takahashi’s mischievous youth in Asahikawa took a turn for the better when, through a tempura master who was a close friend of his potter uncle, he landed a job at Sukiyabashi Jiro. Like Ravel’s Bolero, sushi here is presented with a particular rhythm, building toward a crescendo of sweetness, sourness and temperature in harmony. Destiny is in the taste and texture of every piece of sushi at Harutaka.

Being originally located in the grounds of Seishoji Temple is why Daigo began serving shojin ryori. What Nomura inherits as the restaurant’s fourth-generation owner is shojin ryori for gracious service. Note that dried bonito flakes are used in the broth, so the meals are not completely vegetarian. The nutrition and flavour of the vegetables and the sukiya architecture put the mind at ease. Relax and enjoy this moment of tranquillity.

The food culture of Hong Kong is summed up in a simple proverb: Sik dak hai fuk: “Eating is a blessing.” The Hong Kong–born chef, known only as ‘Tommy’, delights in staging the daily ritual of gathering around the dinner table and merrily sharing a meal. He puts each ingredient on display as he cooks heaping platters of food and shares it out among his guests. Freshly roasted pork fillet and crispy chicken are flavours straight from his native city.

‘L’Osier’ means ‘The Willow’. The name comes from the willow trees that once symbolised Ginza and is a nod to the shop’s founding location. When the doors open, guests are greeted by a glass artwork depicting a willow tree. Half a century has passed since the restaurant opened, but it has never stopped innovating. Chef Olivier Chaignon cultivates relationships with producers around the country, creating French cuisine at the cutting edge of the era.

The long table bears a close resemblance to the dining tables of European nobility. Dinner is served table d’hôte: guests gather around a single large table, sharing the joy of good food and conversation. Reading the mood of the era, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate serves up delicious food and eco-consciousness, actively incorporating plant-based ingredients. The choice of vegetarian dishes as main meals is a new twist. Whether vegetarian or vegan, the fare blazes a fresh trail in vegetable cuisine.

With his expertise refined at a Kyoto cuisine restaurant, the chef emphasises seasonal ingredients, showcasing his experience in dishes that highlight their finest qualities. He starts with delicacies and aemono appetisers designed to enhance the enjoyment of sake. The warm boiled wild mustard greens with deep-fried tofu is a Sasada speciality perfected over many years. All the dishes are carefully prepared with a focus on simplicity, showcasing the chef’s humble personality and dedication to his craft.

The name of the restaurant means ‘highest compliment’ or ‘apex’. The pinnacle of cuisine, perched on the top floor of a soaring skyscraper, is the concept here. The precepts of apothéose are a trinity: respect for French culinary culture; a deep spirit of inquiry into Japanese ingredients; and devotion to knowing the present moment. Willingness to experiment, unconstrained by convention, ensures customers understand the joys of food.