Chambres d'Hotes la Belle Taille

Deep in the Normandy countryside, the huge forest of Andaine seems to have put down roots in this wood-rich restaurant as it nurtures and nourishes Franck Quinton’s forest-inspired cooking. His way with mushrooms is second to none: tricholoma, bearded hedgehog, blue foot or grey and yellow oyster mushrooms make guest appearances in his famous “mushroom toastie”. The surrounding woodland plays a prominent role in his cooking, as the Douglas pine used in herbal tea illustrates. A committed champion of local produce, the chef cherry-picks his ducklings, veg from down the road and creamy Gillot AO

Formerly the canteen of the local iron ore mine (closed in April 1970), this inn has been the haunt of the same chef for over 40 years. Trained classically, his watchword is simplicity and his cooking is the epitome of straightforward authenticity, albeit with flawless technique and inspired creativity. Examples include calf’s sweetbread flanked by Vire andouille and braised in hay – culinary bliss! This enticing seasonal score is served in two stylishly sleek dining rooms that manage to avoid the starched formality that can be characteristic of such places… What a treat to go down the mine!

This restaurant with a bright, contemporary decor delivers the goods when it promises a warm welcome. Chef Gaëtan Crespin works with excellent seasonal produce, most sourced locally, to craft creative and technically on-point cuisine. A shining example comes in the form of his scallops, endive and clementine, or roast veal, parsnips and shiitake… And with excellent value for money guaranteed, it was love at first bite!

Behind 19C bow windows, a town centre hotel is home to a bustling bistro which sports a stylish herringbone parquet floor. The unpretentious score is vibrant, well crafted and stars top-drawer produce. The emphasis is on fresh ingredients, illustrated by a ceviche of wild shrimp and seabream with citrus fruits or hanger steak with melt-in-the-mouth shallots. It is always a pleasure to watch the meat roasting on the spit visible from the dining room. A welcoming establishment, popular with a regular crowd of locals, and just the ticket to sample expertly crafted bistro classics.

Fontaine-Daniel is the epitome of an old French country village and the birthplace of the famous Toiles de Mayenne fabrics. Overlooking a pond and the forest, this venue is housed in a former outbuilding of a Cistercian abbey, which became the hub of this textile manufacturing enterprise in the 19C. Chef William Blondel cooks primarily with local produce that he doesn’t hesitate to enhance with modern and creative twists gleaned from his own globetrotting travels.

Chef Clément Guyon is back in his hometown after a culinary odyssey that took him around France (notably Flocons de Sel in Megève) and abroad (Atelier Crenn in San Francisco). The timber of the façade and terrace are echoed in the restaurant's pared-back interior. The menu varies depending on the time of day: at lunchtime, bistronomic-style fare and a more high-flying slant come the evening, starring local and seasonal ingredients – served in a buzzy, bantering atmosphere.

In the heart of the town, almost within shouting distance of the castle, this small modern bistro, which sports a workshop vibe of wood and metal, is the brainchild of chef Adrien Barrier, who was born in Évron and knows Mayenne inside out. After stints with Yannick Alléno and Philippe Mille, this gifted craftsman curates feel-good, flavoursome food that hits the spot every time, be it his white asparagus with haddock, houmous and hazelnut crumble or the confit of pork belly, pressed aubergine and pork jus.