Xitan Hotel Beijing

Named after the provincial flower of Hunan, this brand is part of the Xin Rong Ji Group. It serves Hunanese classics such as steamed fish head with chopped chilli that packs a punch. Pork tripe soup with pickled radish cooked in a casserole over charcoal imparts tangy, briny depth. Softshell turtle is another speciality, either steamed with yellow chilli or red braised. The smaller "horse-hoof" variety is perfect for a party of two.

This is the first Beijing branch of the Taizhou brand famous for super-fresh, top-notch seafood shipped from the East China Sea daily. Wild-caught yellow croaker is the mainstay of a menu that keeps pace with availability, however, brown croaker is also a firm favourite for many, and whether it is crafted into dumplings that burst with juices or minced and braised into springy ‘lion head’ meatballs, it always delivers succulent flavours and textures.

Vegetarian

This flagship of the chain has an elegant but relaxed dining space done out in modern Chinese style. The menu is essentially the same as at other branches, focusing on Taizhou cooking and fish from the East China Sea. But the 28-day-old baby Peking duck, which you have to pre-order, is available exclusively at this location. Try also the duck stew with fish maw and taro – the taro is so starchy and tender that it melts in your mouth.

Upon arrival at this upmarket restaurant, diners step into a hallway lined with steeply priced dried fish maws. With years of experience in Hong Kong and Shanghai, Chef Cheung reimagines Chaozhou classics with sophistication and finesse. Braised fish maw with 30-year-aged dried radish is one of his proud creations – the lingering aromas of the radish lend the dish extra depth of flavour. Both the wine list and tea menu are packed with excellent choices.

The three-storey complex with an art gallery, a main dining room and a space for private banquets boasts pristine white walls dotted with artworks and greenery. It serves simple fare like smørrebrød (open sandwiches) for lunch; there is a single tasting menu at dinner. Pickled, smoked and cured ingredients are used aptly to show Nordic influences, without being overpowering. Meat and seafood sourced globally are complemented by seasonal produce.

Designed by German architect Ole Scheeren, this dining room seamlessly blends pared-down modernism with hutong traditions. Imagine circular booths that create an array of semi-private spaces. The experienced head chef from Hong Kong showcases his solid, savvy skills in signature dishes like roast pigeon. The menu includes many items that are available in individual portion sizes, so diners can sample the variety of his repertory. The delicately-crafted dim sum is recommended at lunchtime.