LN Dongfang Hotel Guangzhou

Yao Ji has been a household name in Panyu District for over 40 years. On the menu, classic Cantonese flavours work their magic in painstaking recipes that are a rarity these days. The sweet, steamed lotus root puree is sticky and chewy and well complemented by briny dried shrimps and aromatic scallion. Oyster sauce chicken is nicely browned and boasts an inimitable umami flavour thanks to scallion and ginger.

The chain operates branches in Hunan and Guangdong, but everything started in this flagship venue with a landscaped garden and a running stream. Its namesake signature dish is rice cooked in a pigeon and pork bone broth, boasting a crispy golden crust on the bottom and topped with steamed pigeon or a combo of pigeon meat and gizzards. Besides deep-fried or salt-baked fowl, the sautéed squid with cucumber is also a must.

The majestic red and gold colour scheme is a fitting lead-in to the Cantonese classics reimagined by Chef Chan with a refined touch. Try his juicy and tender char siu or the Peking duck with its dark and crispy caramelised skin. The array of dim sum on offer, such as apple sauce char siu puff pastry, is also a highlight. With vivid colour and varied textures, the steamed red yeast rice roll stuffed with minced shrimp in a crispy crust is enticing.

A must-try for spicy food lovers. Named after famous statesman Zeng Guofan of Qing Dynasty, the room pays tribute to him with his literary and calligraphic works. The menu also focusses on dishes and seasonal ingredients from Hunan province, where Zeng hailed from. The signature softshell turtle is either braised in sauces or blanched in stock, best ordered ahead of time. Also try the braised pork belly, a recipe from Shuangfeng County.

It's a bit out of the way, but the tasty abalone makes the trip here worthwhile. The founder's love affair with the gastropod spans 30+ years. Each one is painstakingly prepared then slow-cooked for 156 hours, resulting in concentrated seafood umami and abalone that, while tender, retains a lovely chewiness. His flavourful abalone sauce goes perfectly with steamed rice. Cantonese stir-fries, such as sautéed winged bean with minced pork, also stand out.

Adjacent to a convention centre, the restaurant is spread over two floors with both a main dining area and many private rooms. Bird and flower murals and marble with exquisite veining add to the contemporary Chinese chic. In addition to Cantonese barbecue and dim sum, Chef Fei and his team excel in Chaoshan favourites such as marinated raw seafood and soy-marinated meats. Must-try items include the baby pigeon with its crispy skin and juicy meat.

Slat wood panels, exquisite bonsai, a soundtrack of a flowing river – it all imparts a Zen-like ambiance. The young chef has extensive experience in plant-based cooking and the single tasting menu features the season's best produce. The course water bamboo three ways, in particular, showcases the chef's vision and meticulous skills. The plant is grilled, basted in sauce, oven baked and made into a roll, for varied textures and flavours.