Beijing Migrator Mountain Resort

Vegetarian

Upon arrival at this upmarket restaurant, diners step into a hallway lined with steeply priced dried fish maws. With years of experience in Hong Kong and Shanghai, Chef Cheung reimagines Chaozhou classics with sophistication and finesse. Braised fish maw with 30-year-aged dried radish is one of his proud creations – the lingering aromas of the radish lend the dish extra depth of flavour. Both the wine list and tea menu are packed with excellent choices.

A skylight in the pitched roof bathes the main room in natural light; the private rooms and balcony also feel cosy. An inquisitive soul by nature, veteran chef Dai spent time in Japan studying plant-based ingredients. His menu follows the seasons and may include his signature "porcini, green pepper, sea salt" with Yunnan mushrooms chargrilled to impart smoky aromas. The famous tofu is steeped in broth and intoxicating flavours.

The cosy, understated space is done out in neutral greys with pops of teal green. The Shanghainese head chef and predominantly Shanghainese kitchen team reinterpret the classics, adding modern twists. Check out the seasonal offerings made with Jiangzhe ingredients that are hard to come by in Beijing. Another highlight is their Shanghainese dim sum, such as xiao long bao and qingtuan (sweet sticky rice dumplings with Chinese mugwort).

Instead of typical Shandong classics, the chef, who hails from the province, champions a menu starring seafood that is shipped from Weihai port daily. The crisp and tangy Laizhou Bay "penis fish" salad on a bed of ice plant tantalises the taste buds. The donkey soup with Solomon's seal and black garlic, slow cooked for over 10 hours, delivers meaty sweetness and a gelatinous texture from the donkey hide, in a space that exudes traditional elegance.

This upmarket restaurant in Chaozhou is another gem from the F&B chain. Chef Gu, who hails from the city, has been cooking professionally for over 30 years. His menu is based on tradition but imbued with creativity. The boneless pigeon stuffed with bird's nest in matsutake broth delivers striking layers of textures. Professional wine and tea sommeliers take care of the libations. Chinese reds and whites aside, try the phoenix tea brewed with spring water.

The speciality here is Shandong cooking, especially Confucius cuisine, sea cucumber and live seafood shipped daily from Jiaodong peninsula. The chef is from Yantai and knows the food from his home province inside out. Try his roast 45-day-old duck served with caviar, prawn crackers and Shandong pancakes, which embodies features of both Beijing and Shandong cuisine. The lengthy tea menu and bespoke tea service make for a very special experience.