Phen Art House, Artistic Living in the Heart of Old Quarter

Guests are cosseted from start to finish during this theatrical dining experience at the 14-seat counter in the Capella Hanoi hotel basement. Affable Chef Hiroshi Yamaguchi skilfully cooks teppanyaki dishes that are rich and complex in flavour. The menu's distinct decadence is epitomised by the premium ingredients flown in fortnightly from Japan (abalone, spiny lobster, sea urchin and Hokkaido hairy crab). The certified Kyori beef arrives from Yaeyama monthly.

One of Hanoi's most iconic eateries, Phở Gia Truyền exemplifies the Northern approach to phở with three options: rare flank, medium rare round or well-done brisket. Each delicious bowl is made to order at the counter, and diners can add crispy quẩy or a golden egg yolk for richness.

Opened over 30 years, this restaurant has three branches on one street. Head to the most popular, at 6B: a pale-yellow, century-old townhouse accessible via a quaint courtyard. The menu stars chả cá, deboned Hemibagrus catfish (cá lăng), seasoned with turmeric, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Served in a hot pot, it is lightly stir-fried with spring onions and herbs – best enjoyed with rice noodles and fish sauce.

Early risers delight in this beef phở haven, open from 5:30am until mid‐morning, when beef cuts and broth are sold out. Fresh ingredients shine in the signature beef heel muscle, which boasts tender meat and gelatinous tendon with a pleasant chew. Order phở with eggs and fried dough, just like the locals.

As its name suggests, this long-standing family-run spot specialises in bánh cuốn, keeping alive a craft passed down through generations. Everything is made from scratch using traditional methods, resulting in rice rolls that are thin, delicate and soft. The family-recipe dipping sauce strikes a pleasing balance of salty, sweet and sour. Fillings include pork, shrimp and chicken, with extra toppings available. The bún thang, a Hanoi-style noodle soup with assorted toppings, is also worth trying.

For over a decade, this small shop has been known for its crispy bánh xèo pancake with various fillings. For first-timers, English-speaking servers helpfully explain how the pancake is wrapped in rice paper with veggies and herbs, and dunked in the tangy fish sauce before being consumed. In addition to the signature pancake, hot pot, spring roll, rice noodles and barbecues are their strong suits.

Khôi Hói means bald head, referring to the owner’s hairstyle. Come here for phở – beef noodle soup. There are many cuts to choose from, including rare cuts like beef heel muscle. You can also specify how you like your beef cooked.