Tainan No 820

The absence of both an obvious sign and air conditioning hasn’t deterred hungry locals from flocking here from 7am till late over the past four decades. With generous chunks of deep-fried Spanish mackerel in a stock made with halibut, bonito and fried garlic, the eponymous thick soup makes a great meal by itself or a snack between meals. If you’re lucky, you may even get to try the deep-fried mackerel skin that offers great seafood umami.

Its hallmark beef soup is simmered with beef bones, brisket, fat and onion and thin slices of lean beef are added just before serving. Pour on a dash of rice wine for extra fragrance or dip the beef in the fiery homemade chilli sauce for a kick. The broth delivers serious umami, while the sliced beef is tender and flavourful. To sample the varied textures and flavours of different beef cuts, also try cold beef appetisers and stir-fries.

Fu Tai Table began as a street vendor over 80 years ago, but not until 2015 did it have a permanent address. It's the perfect place to experience the unique fan zhuo zai culture – diners order a bowl of braised pork rice with several small plates that arrive at the table stacked on top of each other on a tray. Look for the menu on the blackboard. Made fresh daily, the soup with assorted meatballs is also worth trying for its bouncy texture and deep umami.

The owner had been selling fried eels and squids for ages before he started serving migao by chance in 1985. Surprisingly, his sticky rice topped with braised pork, sliced cucumber, fish floss and peanut quickly surpassed his original offerings in popularity – and he has focused on migao and sishen herbal soup ever since. The gravy on his migao has a peppery aroma to go alongside the rich and deep flavours.

A devotee of the goddess Mazu, the owner-chef picked this space near the Grand Mazu Temple for his venture. Motifs of the goddess are dotted throughout the restaurant, from its sign to the shrine-inspired décor. Home-style cooking is kicked up a notch with a touch of sophistication. Leafy greens deftly meld the depth and umami of the fresh, salted and thousand-year egg trio. Try the squid and whelk soup, a classic banquet dish rarely found in Tainan. Closed during Mazu festivities.

This place that started out as a corner stall some 30 years ago is now a fully-fledged joint with a bright, clean room… but the friendly service and bustling ambience haven't changed! Freshly slaughtered milkfish is the main draw – as a soup slow cooked with milkfish bone and head for natural sweetness, or fried milkfish belly with crispy skin and tender flesh. Rife with rustic aromas, the garlic rice drizzled with lard is the breakfast of choice for many.

A household name for over 60 years, Amei was remodelled when it moved to this venue. Red tablecloths add colour to the wood-rich interior. The small menu is big on banquet classics and century-old recipes, combining the natural umami of ingredients with the locals’ love of savoury-sweet dishes. Rou mi xia is a thick broth of diced veggies topped with deep-fried whiskered velvet shrimps from Anping. Ask about items that need pre-ordering when booking.