SWEETS HOTEL KYOTO -Adult Only

In a teacher-and-student quest, Hiroshi Sasaki and his understudies vie to create the greatest flavours. Combining Sasaki’s wealth of experience with the youthful sensitivity of his disciples, the restaurant builds a menu that surprises and delights, suffusing classic Japanese cuisine with fresh technique and imagination. The counter becomes a theatre that brings cooks and diners together, each playing their parts. The performances of ‘Sasaki Kitchen Theatre’, fun for eyes and tastebuds, have a presence that keeps the house packed night after night.

The chef oversees every aspect of the menu, which changes monthly. The restaurant evolves from moment to moment as seasons shift and the day’s ingredients are chosen; this impermanence inspires the passion and the flavours at the core of the chef’s creativity. He embraces the principle of shuhari, the three stages of mastery: first, master the basics; next, break the mould with creativity; finally, set out on your own to blaze a new trail. Guest and chef merge time and space, sharing a mutually felt joy.

Kikunoi is spreading the word worldwide about the allure of Japanese cuisine. Yoshihiro Murata sets his sights on innovation while evangelising Kyoto’s graceful ryotei culture. Occasionally Western ingredients get added to the mix, infusing a contemporary sensibility. Change accumulates in layers here, as a result of shifting personnel: Chef Murata invites trainees from overseas to pass on to them the true nature of Japanese cuisine and Japanese traditions of service. Fixing his gaze on the future of Japanese cooking, Murata cultivates the next generation of chefs.

The ambience is still, like a mountain retreat in the heart of the city. The flicker of votive lanterns casts a tenor of rustic simplicity. While he worked to polish his cooking skills, Hitoshi Ishihara also encountered Zen teachings. Inspired by the wabicha spirit of the tea ceremony, Ishihara strives to host each dinner as a single gathering, with guests and host in close communication. Generous portions reinforce the mood of celebration. ‘Mizai’ is a Zen word meaning ‘not yet here’; for Ishihara, tireless self-improvement is a never-ending journey.

The house began life as a travelling fishmonger, carrying fish from Wakasa Bay to scattered markets, then gradually transitioned into a restaurant. The sixth-generation head, Motokazu Nakamura, took over the reins having been the only one entrusted with the craft he learned at his father’s side. For the white miso zoni, he only uses water drawn from a well on the premises to dissolve the miso. Sake-grilled tilefish is doused in sake multiple times, piling flavour on top of flavour. The chef tends the kitchen with his son, who trained abroad, passing skills and spirit from one generation to the

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.

Situated on the south side of Kennin-ji Temple, the restaurant looks out on Yasaka Pagoda. Pass through the elegant gate, have a seat in the waiting area, and relax in the courtyard cooled with sprinkled water. The proprietor welcomes guests with the four-fold etiquette of the wabi-cha school of tea ceremony: harmony, respect, purity and tranquillity. In cuisine, he prizes the five unseen senses, with care paid to light, sound, temperature, fragrance and taste. Even the water is steeped in history, tradition and the four seasons. Unseen yet deep and strong are the roots of Kyoto culture here.