一中街星澄

Concrete walls, dark green drapes, wooden furniture and local handmade pottery work nicely together in this elegant room that spans two floors. The young chef, who honed his skills in France, excels in modern French fare with an Asian twist. Try his chargrilled scallop with kombu, peas and parsley sauce for a delightful mix of textures. Desserts made à la minute and tea brewed with herbs that you pick yourself end the meal on a decadent note.

A firm favourite among many Taichungians, this noodle shop is now run by the third generation of the family. For 60+ years, the signature dish has remained unchanged – blanched egg noodles tossed in braised ground pork sauce and fried scallion. Marinated egg is optional, but a dab of the house-made sweet chilli sauce is mandatory. Equally popular are the fried tofu puff soup and the so-called ‘all at once’ soup, well-seasoned with spicy pickled mustard stems.

Diners flock to this semi-self-service shop for pork trotter, hock and leg – braised in a soy-based marinade for up to four hours, the meat is gelatinous, tender and flavourful. It tastes even better with the house-made chilli sauce, cleaner and less complex than with the typical marinade and its strong herbal undertones. The braised diced pork rice and braised fried tofu are also good options. The simple decor makes for a relaxed vibe.

Founded in 1978, this shop made its name with rice steamed in a soft rush-woven pouch that imparts unique aromas. Though no longer cooked that way, quality local rice is now topped with a dab of house-made pickled potherb mustard for savoury sweetness. Their deep-fried boneless chicken thigh with a golden, crispy crust and juicy meat goes down a treat with the rice. It tends to be busy at mealtimes, so come in the afternoon for shorter queues.

This neighbourhood noodle shop, which has been going strong for 70 years, is now run by the third generation. Over the decades, regulars have been coming for the preservative-free Shanghainese noodles. Besides crowd pleasers like pork chop or beef shin noodle soup, the pickled cabbage variety is also a best seller, especially when topped with homemade pickled scallion and chilli sauce. Don’t miss side dishes like pickled cucumber.

Many Taichungians have fond childhood memories of this shop as it has been around for some 60 years. The goose noodle soup combines the Chinese herb Dang Gui, springy goose flesh and robust flavours. If the goose runs out, try the equally enticing duck version. Smoked goose uses adult birds weighing about 6 kg, smoked with cane sugar instead of wood chips. Those craving juicier and fattier meat may ask for the hindquarters when ordering.

In a restored century-old eye clinic, Moon Pavilion juxtaposes colourful velvet-covered banquettes with original wrought iron and red bricks for an interesting clash of industrial and Victorian styles. The food pays tribute to the old-time Taiwanese palate, showing delicate balance and shrewd judgment. Condiments from different Taiwanese counties make appearances in the recipes, including Hakkanese kumquat sauce and Taichungese Nalta jute.