Atour Hotel Xiasha Branch

Every table in the softly lit room commands a view of the open kitchen. The head chef hailing from Taizhou designed the set and à la carte menus to highlight the natural flavours of the best seafood shipped from his hometown. Besides the famous yellow croaker braised in fish stock, also try the fried crab in curry sa cha sauce over pan-fried rice cake in autumn. The extensive wine list covers thousands of labels, mostly from Burgundy in France.

This restaurant on a shopping street, with a main dining space on the lower floor and private rooms upstairs, can be tricky to find. Diners come for authentic Ningbo cooking, such as drunken mud whelks, braised vegetables and stir-fried clams in board bean paste with salted potherb mustard greens. Live fish and seafood shipped daily from Zhoushan, Ninghai and Wenzhou are also popular; the steamed river eel in ginger juice has to be pre-ordered.

A landmark of Sichuan cooking from Chengdu, this outpost opened in a beautifully restored, 1930s, Shikumen-style residence. In line with the brand’s ethos, the set menus highlight natural flavours courtesy of refined, well-crafted Sichuan dishes that roll out subtle Hangzhou influences. Depending on the season, premium local produce, like seafood from Jiangzhe, re-creates some of the 24 taste profiles that comprise classical Sichuan cuisine.

This no-frills shop is relatively inconspicuous, so, you may well walk right past it without noticing. But those in the know flock here for authentic Xiaoshan cuisine made with the freshest seasonal produce. There is no menu – pick your own food from the counter or ask the owner for recommendations. The must-try steamed miiuy croaker is silky in texture and loaded with umami. Poached free-range chicken and steamed veggies also hit the spot every time.

For over 20 years, this Hangzhou-style noodle shop has stood out from the competition courtesy of its wide array of toppings, ranging from old-time favourites like shredded pork, pork kidneys and fried eel to more adventurous items such as sliced snakehead fish noodle soup with pickled mustard greens and spices that deliver a fiery, tangy kick. For a sumptuous feast, order marinated chicken’s feet, duck's head or braised ‘lion head’ meatballs on top.

A sign that says "stinky" or "rotten" might not usually sound appetising, but Yue Ji prides itself on the six features of Shaoxing cooking: soy sauce, distillers' grains, rottenness, stench, wine and pickles! Try dishes marinated with distillers' grains sauce, such as duck gizzard or pork tongue and belly. No meal here is complete without the notorious deep-fried stinky tofu and steamed minced pork patty with rotten millefeuille tofu skin. Pre-ordering recommended.

This household name, famous for home-style Hangzhou cooking, has been around for over 20 years. The dining area occupies two floors, but seating is limited, so expect to queue or share a table at peak hours. The signature cold appetiser of pork kidneys dressed in a sweet tangy sauce is meticulously crafted. Seafood is also their strong suit – try razor clams from the East China Sea sautéed in chilli sauce or scallion oil.