Mitsui Garden Hotel Roppongi Tokyo Premier

The Japanese love of small spaces is deeply connected with the spirit of the tea ceremony and its cultural background. The counter, affording just the right distance between guests and Chef Toshiya Kadowaki, seats just six. The private room, whose low ceiling suggests a tearoom, is so intimate that guests can feel each other’s breathing. The menu features dishes where ingredients in season come together to create fleeting sensations that linger in the memory forever. Truffle rice, enriching the meal in both aroma and flavour, is a case in point.

Auspicious kumiko woodwork patterns, a counter lined with lacquered trays: the modern Japanese décor is in keeping with the culinary theme of ‘wakon yosai’ or ‘Japanese spirit with Western learning’. Cooking is mainly done over wood flame. Japanese seasons and ingredients, wrapped in French tradition and philosophy, all wreathed in the smoky aroma of firewood. Mētis is a goddess of wisdom in classical Greek mythology; perhaps she inspires the chef as he concentrates his own wisdom to weave delicious cuisine.

Hidetoshi Nakamura’s cuisine embodies harmony, subtlety, and purity. With minimal seasoning, he captures each ingredient’s subtle trace in water— using only water and sea salt. Mountain and sea are intimately linked through water. Nakamura reminds us that we are a part of the magnificent connection between Nature and her laws. This elegant aesthetic, of beauty through simplicity, exudes modesty, returning us to a spirit of gratitude for the natural world.

The long table bears a close resemblance to the dining tables of European nobility. Dinner is served table d’hôte: guests gather around a single large table, sharing the joy of good food and conversation. Reading the mood of the era, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate serves up delicious food and eco-consciousness, actively incorporating plant-based ingredients. The choice of vegetarian dishes as main meals is a new twist. Whether vegetarian or vegan, the fare blazes a fresh trail in vegetable cuisine.

Service consists of many dishes in small quantities, hence the name. Creativity abounds, inspired by ingredients and preparation methods from numerous countries. Steamed spicy beef rather than chicken, chicken-wings stuffed with foie gras, and Peking duck wrapped in kadaif pastry show off Series’ talent for arrangement. To accentuate the variety of culinary styles, pairings range widely as well. Pair wine, sake or a cocktail with your meal.

These days more and more guests are asking where the fish are caught. ‘If we could eat sushi where it’s caught, we wouldn’t need markets!’ retorts chef Takashi Ono. Discernment is a faculty built only slowly through long years of experience and knowledge. Along the way Ono has cultivated bonds of trust with seafood brokers, enabling him to source quality. The markets are the classic tale of ‘giri’ and ‘ninjo’, human connections forged in duty and loyalty. Sushi in purest form, stripped to its essence.

Although rooted in French techniques, the cuisine here minimises butter and cream, allowing the natural aromas and flavours of the ingredients to shine in a lighter finish. Chilled oysters with seawater and citrus jelly, as well as kadaif-wrapped john dory, have become the chef’s signature dishes. A plant-based vegan course also reflects his philosophy. ‘Edition’ speaks to his approach of constantly editing and refining recipes, always updating them.