HUB HOTEL XIMEN XINING INN

This pushcart near the end of the market may lack a sign but it always attracts a queue. Their shaobing, fried in oil then baked in a clay oven, comes in two sweet and two savoury varieties – try the minced pork or sugar filling.

This venue sports a dark colour scheme, with an eclectic mix of Chinese garden motifs and European palatial glamour. The Hong Kong chef excels in refined Cantonese fare that showcases his high-flying skill and precision. He uses Cherry Valley ducks from Yilan for his Cantonese-style crispy-skin roast duck, and Peking duck four ways. Pre-order these items to avoid missing out. For dim sum, try meticulously crafted Chinese spinach and salted egg dumplings.

Famous for ba-wan and taro cake, this institution celebrated its 70th anniversary with a facelift in 2024. The third-generation owner still makes ba-wan like his grandparents did – freshly ground rice milk is poured into a bowl before a filling of pork shin, shiitake, chestnut and bamboo shoot is added. The steamed dumpling is then poached in oil, and drizzled with a sweet bean paste and miso sauce. Add garlic purée or home-made chilli sauce for an extra kick.

After starting out as a street stall in the night market over 45 years ago, it has since morphed into a full-blown restaurant with a bright, spruce interior. The room is filled with the heady aromas of its signature item – ‘black gold’ braised pork rice with a gelatinous sauce that tastes savoury-sweet. The rice goes well with stewed cabbage that cuts through the richness. Minced pork and pickled cucumber in broth are bouncy in texture and loaded with flavour. As well as minced pork and pickled cucumber in broth, try their steamed rice with ‘black gold’ pork sauce.

Now run by the third generation, this family shop is known for its authentic Tainan street food. Made from scratch daily, the must-try stewed pork belly shows alternate layers of fat and meat and comes with dried radish, pickles, cucumber and marinated dried tofu on a bed of steamed Tainan rice. The complex, aromatic sauce goes down a treat with the rice. The pork is just as good in gua bao sandwich. The madou rice cake tends to sell out early, so pre-order by phone.

A 60-year-old shop selling buns stuffed with marinated pork belly, pickles, ground peanuts and coriander.

Formerly a members-only dining club, it excites not by its decor, but by shrewdly executed Huaiyang and Sichuan classics, alongside Taiwanese favourites. The veteran head chef cuts back on oil and salt without sacrificing flavour. The main room is quiet and spacious; private rooms are perfect for banquets. Arrive early if you wish to enjoy a long lunch.