The Calm Inn Nishikujo

At this sister location to a Hiroshima restaurant, a chef who honed his skills in Italy displays his talents. Ingredients are from around the Kinki region as well as the chef's beloved Hiroshima. Italian fare is the base, overlaid with French influences from the flagship restaurant, resulting in a seamless blend of French and Italian recipes. Potato gnocchi is the signature dish. Its culinary roots, so important that the name is spelled with an extra ‘o’, extend deep into both Hiroshima and Nakanoshima.

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.

Food conveys the seasons and culture of Japan. The curved earthen walls were fashioned by a plaster craftsman; the Japanese serving-ware was made in collaboration with contemporary ceramic artists. The chef draws inspiration for his cuisine from the strong relationships he fosters with food producers. Consommé made with essence of vegetables and fish is paired with house-made fermented foods. Working closely with producers, the chef creates French cuisine unique to Japan.

Originality is demonstrated here through ingredients from each season and classic techniques. Omakase set menus feature refined, beautiful arrangements, with light flavours to suit a modern sensibility. The name declares that the house is a gathering point, bringing together everyone and everything else involved in food and restaurants. The site chosen for its relaunch was where Point first started. Anticipation is building for this fresh turning point.

The gastronomy of Chef Tatsuhiro Takayama blends a passion for learning from nature with a modern sensibility. To attune his work to the sense of the seasons, he adds layers of texture. His spring ‘Sakuraniku, Sansai’ accents the bitterness of spring vegetables with the texture of buckwheat groats. The menu lists only the ingredients, as a mark of respect to the foodstuff producers. Natural rock tables and wooden ornamental plates eloquently convey the chef’s love of nature.

‘Basque cuisine you can taste only at Alarde’ is the theme, as the chef matches recipes studied in the Basque Country to ingredients found in Japan. His passion shines in the wagyu beef cooked in a stone oven. Fire is built from charcoal and firewood, then grapevines are added to wreathe the beef in smoky aromas. While you’re waiting for the meat to cook, treat yourself to some pinchos or mixed rice. Experience the world of Basque food culture.

The name means ‘spirit of fun’ and also refers to the chef’s given name, Shintaro. All occupations have their joys and sorrows, but the chef maintains a spirit of fun. At the same time, he never forgets reverence for tradition. Lacquered wooden trays and dishes garnished with flowers convey each season. Self-expressive yet respectful of traditional boundaries, his goal is the evolution of Japanese cuisine. Cuisine is a mirror of the soul; joy itself.