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In a former 18C grain store, this imposing vaulted dining room, dotted in contemporary details, is the Besançon HQ of the Bernard Loiseau Group. The menu highlights produce and recipes from Bourgogne-Franche-Comté: mushroom pie, blanquette-style chicken in vin jaune, cabbage stuffed in Morteau sausage… Each dish is painstakingly plated and packed in flavour. A wickedly irresistible dessert trolley winds up this gourmet feast.

In a narrow street near the Doubs, this couple, who earned their stripes in prestigious establishments, work in tandem in the open kitchen, occasionally venturing out to serve diners. Their single set menu, based on carefully selected seasonal produce and enhanced by wild-picked ingredients, is akin to a natural history lesson: carrot / marjoram / plantain / burnet / bay leaf; black pork / pumpkin / poultry jus / spring onion oil; beetroot / raspberry / coriander / iced nougat.

This buzzy contemporary restaurant in the heart of the city is eminently welcoming – terracotta walls, wooden tables, velvet-upholstered chairs and unusual light fixtures using bicycle wheels and exposed light bulbs. The dishes, largely inspired by the market, are deftly crafted: snails in bacon and époisses cheese; confit pork cheeks, chorizo and cream of sweet onions… The wine list is predominantly organic and stars Burgundy and Jura vintages.

"This contemporary bistro with a pleasant interior proposes tasty food rife with various influences, including Asian touches, skilfully handled from start to finish, without ostentation. Add to that a distinct tendency towards the ""natural"" (seasonality, ingredients) and a handful of vegetarian dishes and you get an ambassador of the Besançon's revival. "

At the foot of the citadel, this former military riding arena specialises in delicate, flavoursome fare rich in regional twists (such as a mushroom crust cooked in vin jaune or their amazing sliced black pudding). The self-taught chef is a stickler for perfection – as the first and last bite will confirm.

At the foot of the Vauban Citadel, this opulent hotel occupies the former convent of the Poor Clares. Antique parquet floors and starched tablecloths set the elegant scene, further enhanced by a magnificent terrace overlooking the park. The gifted chef crafts a modern score.

In the family since the 1960s, this inn proposes traditional cuisine that showcases regional produce. Morels take pride of place, as do pike-perch and chicken in vin jaune, without forgetting frogs’ legs, fresh from the restaurant’s pond in season. The self-service distributor of home-made dishes next-door is something of a curiosity.