Via Inn Shinsaibashi

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

Hanging in the kitchen is a framed calligraphy motto bearing the phrase ‘Hakuraku no ikko’ -a reference to distinguishing true quality. It reflects the chef’s wish to keep improving so as to earn the respect of his diners. For the chefs, the plain wood counter is the stage on which they perform as one cohesive unit. Food and dishware captivate with seasonal combinations. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing: beauty sculpted from the bounty of land and sea, where both rich and light coexist. Guests here are welcomed with carefully prepared dishes.

This is the place to sample modern Mexican cuisine. Respect for the traditions of the motherland are palpable as Japanese ingredients and modern techniques move the genre forward. Corn, the staple food, along with cacao and chili peppers, is sourced from Mexico, and, following tradition, the food is cooked over a wood-fired grill. Milpa is the name in the Nahuatl (Aztec) language for a farming system that enriches the earth; the chef likens cooking techniques to farming, cultivating a new Mexican culinary culture in Osaka.

The nameplate features calligraphy by Teiichi Yuki, a visionary who helped elevate the status of Japanese cuisine. The second-generation chef upholds the spirit that Yuki, founder of the Kitcho group, inherited from his mentor. The menu reflects the beauty of the seasons and conveys the culture of Japan. Gorgeous hassun appetiser platters incorporate elements of seasonal celebrations, placing traditional culinary craftmanship on full display. Inside the house, which is built in the tea ceremony room style, the decor is simple and rustic. The aesthetics of Japanese cuisine live and breathe in u

‘Basque cuisine you can taste only at Alarde’ is the theme, as the chef matches recipes studied in the Basque Country to ingredients found in Japan. His passion shines in the wagyu beef cooked in a stone oven. Fire is built from charcoal and firewood, then grapevines are added to wreathe the beef in smoky aromas. While you’re waiting for the meat to cook, treat yourself to some pinchos or mixed rice. Experience the world of Basque food culture.

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.