Hotel Les Cigalons

In his eatery near the Stade Vélodrome, this artist-cum-chef on a perpetual creative quest has elevated the small portion to the realm of art. He is a virtuoso when it comes to spices, roasting and smoking and his childhood in Congo flows freely through his cuisine. This distinctive hallmark is further enriched by a unique use of vinegars (over 400 house creations) that add depth and complexity to his jus. The resulting lineup of some forty small dishes, a truly herculean task, is surgically crafted and often visually striking: cuttlefish steamed in sake, puffed barley, briny seasoning and sea

Chef Ludovic Turac is at the helm of this stylish seaside-themed restaurant firmly anchored in the South of France. The chef signs unmistakably Marseille menus, strewn with nods to his travels around the Mediterranean and his own Armenian heritage. His inventive recipes are always packed with flavour and are perfectly in tune with the knockout panorama over the Vieux Port and the city’s iconic basilica. Signatures include aïoli, pan-seared Mediterranean squid, lacquered and smoked greater amberjack, bouillabaisse of red mullet or Corsican tigerstripe veal, all of which unveil outstanding surf

Not far from Cours Julien, this old Marseille bar, spruced up but pleasingly unfussy, has retained its heart and soul: white and bottle-green walls, exposed stonework, and a terrace on a lively square. At the helm is a French-British duo who trained at Frenchie (Paris and London). They serve up bold and fiery Mediterranean dishes that look to Spain for inspiration. On the dinner menu on this occasion: skate wing terrine with pepper sauce; aubergine, smoked yoghurt, caponata, plum and sumac flower… and squid-ink rice with grilled octopus and aioli. Two sittings in the evening in summer. Booking

Established in a former butcher’s, energetic Laëtitia Visse, who trained at the Paris Ferrandi School before stints in star restaurants and renowned bistros (Guy Savoy, Alain Dutournier, Cyril Lignac, Olivier Nasti at Kaysersberg) has, unsurprisingly given the name, decided to focus on meat: homemade pâté, fried black pudding, sausages, pig’s trotters, etc… Equally in tune with the zeitgeist, her wine list is strongly focused towards natural and biodynamic wines. Casual service and vibe. In the finest traditions of a Gallic bistro!

Brazilian chef Danielle Barbosa (winner of MasterChef Brazil 2020) is now alone at the helm of Bucado, in the location that used to be home to Būbo. To be enjoyed in an interior decorated with a colourful fresco inspired by South American flora, her dishes have a distinct character combining modern techniques (lacto-fermentation, fish maturation) and Brazilian influences (condiments and spices, cassava, tapioca etc). One of the set menus is vegetarian; classic cocktails. Attentive service with a smile immediately puts you at ease!

Chef Hugues Mbenda, who hails from Kinshasa (Democratic Republic of the Congo), crafts a single set menu comprised of several courses that changes every fortnight and features Mediterranean ingredients, African influences and French know-how: manioc crisps with sweet chilli and burnt onion cream; shoulder of Sisteron lamb, gnocchi of plantain banana and confit lemon. The ingredients are fresh, the plating is spot on and the flavours cosmopolitan. At lunchtime, Libala, the chef's cross-cultural street food restaurant, has a simpler menu.

Venezuelan-born chef David Mijoba has opened his own bistro in a busy foodie spot with Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde as a backdrop. His commitment to quality sourcing and passion for ingredients are evident, and the provenance of almost every ingredient is clearly highlighted: tartare of cuttlefish, lemon mayonnaise, creole peppers, Castelfranco salad; consommé of pot-au-feu, Aubrac pork belly and seasonal veg. Flavoursome cosmopolitan cuisine that taps into one continent after another, with lunch tending towards vegetables and dinner being more fish and seafood-based. Fine selection of ‘living’ wine