Ya Tai Hotel

This no-frills shop near the train station has been renowned for its migao since 1955. Glutinous rice mixed with dried shrimps and shallot is steamed in ceramic ramekins (rather than bamboo tubes). The rice cake is then turned out onto a serving plate, drizzled with braised pork sauce and topped with fish floss and pickled radish. They sometimes sell out early and the shop has irregular days off, so call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Ciaotou was the centre of Taiwan’s sugar production and this 6-decade-old joint fascinates its fans with terrific braised pork rice boasting a savoury-sweet taste. Pork shoulder and belly in a specific ratio are hand-diced and braised till melting before being drizzled over steamed rice. Pork thick soup, and assorted pork offal make perfect companions with the signature rice. Expect to queue any time of the day. It closes on major holidays.

This simple shop is always jam-packed with customers. Its signature is undoubtedly the eponymous duck rice – smoked duck pieces on steamed rice drizzled with a secret sauce. Another speciality, hand-sliced duck leg rice, is available in limited quantity, boasting smoky and juicy flesh. And of course, the duck also goes well with the array of noodles on offer. Try assorted duck offal soup, and side dishes made with bean sprouts.

As opposed to typical braised pork rice shops that can sometimes feel a little dated, this one boasts a bright, simple interior with full-length windows. The cartoon pig logo also makes it appealing to a younger audience. Despite its fresh look, the menu focusses on good old Taiwanese favourites. Braised pork rice is a must, and you have the option to top it with an over-easy egg. Do also order sides like braised cabbage, and pork tendon.

Gangshan is famous for its goat and you can’t leave without trying caprine dishes. Before opening Joes in 1955, the founder had long been selling goat in the market. With his connections, Joes always has access to the freshest goats. Signature dishes include Angelica goat hot pot, an herbal tonic with ribs and skin-on cuts. Stir-fried goat with bitter melon, and blanched goat slices with chilli bean sauce are also good. Bookings aren’t accepted.

The room isn’t particularly spacious, but it does exude a homely feel. Similarly, the menu features Taiwanese home-style cooking, that is lightly seasoned and in smaller portions. The signature grilled Pacific saury in honey sauce is braised until the bones are tender and edible, perfect with a bowl of steamed rice, pork lard rice, or braised pork rice. Or you can opt for steamed taro root cake with shiitake and dried shrimps as starch.

Memorabilia and vinyl records mingle with glamorous portraits and obsolete farming tools in this nostalgic interior. In the same spirit, the menu compiles a list of some much-missed home-style Taiwanese classics of yesteryear. For the perfect companion to a bowl of steamed rice, order the fried chicken leg with old ginger in three-cup sauce, which delivers deep soy, basil and sesame flavours. Ask about the chef's specials on weekends.