Hotel Route-Inn Sakurai Ekimae

The interior of the old traditional house is refurbished, yet the Showa-era ambience is unmistakable. The chef cooks alone, dedicated to his credo of serving everything straight from the kitchen to the table. What impresses most are the vegetables. Each plate features leaf and root vegetables grown under the personal care of the chef’s father, a landscape architect. The chef uses restrained seasoning to bring out the flavours of the ingredients. Takikomi-gohan made with vegetables picked that morning is served with house-made pickles. Simple, honest cooking, done as only Morimoto can.

A peaceful, traditional rural house surrounded by farmland is home to this restaurant. The shop is an advertisement for the good earth of Asuka, ‘the place where Japan began’, and its bounty. Main ingredients consist of produce cultivated by the chef’s family. One item, a brightly colourful salad, is named “Daichi Kara”, “From the Land”. Wheat is turned into pasta, rice into risotto. Set menus are a journey through the seasons, calculated to inspire gratitude to nature as one proceeds through the meal.

Sushi Kawashima pursues its own way in the sushi world, a route that crosses paths with the food culture of Nara. Sashimi is dressed with hishio, a koji-mould and salt-water mixture said to be the origin of soy sauce. Snacks are served with preserved so, a condensed-milk product enjoyed in ancient Japan. Yamato tachibana pepper is a seasoning made from an ancient citrus fruit. Sushi of gizzard shad with persimmon leaf testifies to the chef’s lively imagination. Nigirizushi is formed without wasabi, to bring out the flavours of the topping and sushi rice. Persimmon-leaf tea is a relaxing treat

The chef fell in love with the delicious taste and texture of locally raised Nara chicken and pours his heart and soul into its preparation. To ensure his guests experience the full spectrum of flavours, his skewers feature a wide range of cuts, from the familiar to the rare. Seasoning is carefully chosen: salt or dipping sauce for some, sake or chicken fat for others. Chicken tenderloin, for example, is ingeniously showered with Yamato tachibana pepper, a condiment made from an ancient citrus fruit. Items served to wrap up the meal are prepared with the same attention to detail: yakitori on r

The restaurant shares a site occupied by a sake brewery since the days of the shoguns. A black counter reflects the Japanese interior of this refurbished traditional house. Locally grown and raised ingredients are the star of the cuisine, with Nara-style pickled vegetables, Yamato beef and vegetables all expressing the terroir of Nara. Akitsuho rice, used in sake brewing, makes an appearance in prix fixe offerings, transformed into rice dishes such as paella and risotto. Sake pairings from the unique expertise of a sake brewer are another reason to visit.

The chef prizes his relations with food producers; the better to express the appeal of each region’s topography. Lega’ means ‘bind’ or ‘connect’: the restaurant binds together the food cultures of Italy and Nara and puts diners in touch with the thoughts of food producers. Sushi of uncured ham and persimmon leaf, venison senbei—a dish resembling Nara’s famous deer crackers—and other unique items overlay one tradition onto another. The chef honed his skills in Italy’s Piemonte region, which is why he devotes himself to making hand-rolled pastas such as tajarin and agnolotti in autumn and winter

There is a saying about the depth of skill an unagi chef needs: three years to learn how to skewer it, eight to learn how to dress it and a lifetime to learn how to grill it. While grilling unagi might be the most difficult, Hideki Morimoto was tasked with it from a young age by his father, the then owner. Edo-style grilling includes steaming beforehand and is something the father learned while training in Tokyo. He buys in mostly large unagi and far-infrared grills it.