Hangzhou Xianghu·Hangzhou amusement park

(The restaurant is temporarily closed.) This tiny shop specialising in Xiaoshan cooking has no paper menu – you pick from the fish tank and various dishes on display. Steaming is a key characteristic of Xiaoshan cuisine and, here, river fish, meat and vegetables are steamed with ham and cured pork, yellow wine, or chicken fat and soy sauce to bring out their natural flavours. Three-year-old duck is steamed with ham for intense umami. The pork stuffed omelette roll is another must-try.

Every table in the softly lit room commands a view of the open kitchen. The head chef hailing from Taizhou designed the set and à la carte menus to highlight the natural flavours of the best seafood shipped from his hometown. Besides the famous yellow croaker braised in fish stock, also try the fried crab in curry sa cha sauce over pan-fried rice cake in autumn. The extensive wine list covers thousands of labels, mostly from Burgundy in France.

Full-length windows allow diners to bask in the lush greenery of Xiang Lake. The kitchen is under a white dome with jars of fermented food on a round island, like a place of worship. The set menu showcases modern French cuisine made with local Chinese ingredients, incorporating authentic elements of Hangzhou. Even the dinner rolls are steamed like Chinese buns before being baked.

Diners are greeted by rows of live fish tanks at the entrance and various ingredients on display. A Xiaoshan native, the hands-on owner has been running this business for almost 20 years. You can ask him to recommend the catch of the day alongside other authentic Xiaoshan items made à la minute. Fish balls are one of his specialities but aren't available every day. The steamed buns made from scratch are the epitome of meticulous craftsmanship.

A sign that says "stinky" or "rotten" might not usually sound appetising, but Yue Ji prides itself on the six features of Shaoxing cooking: soy sauce, distillers' grains, rottenness, stench, wine and pickles! Try dishes marinated with distillers' grains sauce, such as duck gizzard or pork tongue and belly. No meal here is complete without the notorious deep-fried stinky tofu and steamed minced pork patty with rotten millefeuille tofu skin. Pre-ordering recommended.

Down an alley near the Drum Tower, a yellow flag heralds the "wonton king", priming diners for the dumpling feast to come. Having retired in 2016, the owner learnt to make wonton from scratch, before opening this shop. The filling is made in-house with freshly slaughtered (not frozen) pork; ultra fresh vegetables and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds impart extra aromas; dried shrimps add umami depth to the broth. The potstickers are tasty, too.

For over 20 years, this Hangzhou-style noodle shop has stood out from the competition courtesy of its wide array of toppings, ranging from old-time favourites like shredded pork, pork kidneys and fried eel to more adventurous items such as sliced snakehead fish noodle soup with pickled mustard greens and spices that deliver a fiery, tangy kick. For a sumptuous feast, order marinated chicken’s feet, duck's head or braised ‘lion head’ meatballs on top.