Hotel Tenjin

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving

Tozentei takes its name from a fictitious restaurant in a novel. ‘Tozen’ means ‘tipsy,’ a state of being slightly and comfortably under the influence; the name invites guests to find pleasure in both tucker and tipple. The fabric of human relations in this family-run restaurant exudes a feel of immersion in a cheerful TV drama or story. Tilefish steamed with plums and kombu consummately combines the flavour of the fish flesh with the tartness of dried plums. Tozentei is located close to Tenmangu, a shrine famous for the plum trees beloved by the poet and statesman Sugawara no Michizane. The co

A procession of dishes that linger in the diner’s memory. Seasonal flavours are used in generous measure, such as Japanese pepper flower, pike conger, matsutake mushrooms and crab. Preparation methods, whether that be grilling, boiling or more, are astutely tailored to each ingredient, showcasing its qualities from every angle. This talent for bringing out the best in food is born of long years of experience. A favourite haunt of the literati, the Uozuya sign calligraphy is by essayist Masako Shirasu.

Generous portions give satisfaction, while ingenious ingredient combinations make simple presentations all the more impressive. To learn about fish, the chef spent time working at a fishmonger’s. Fish is prepared simply—freshly sliced, grilled or deep-fried—yet with clever twists as befits a connoisseur. The meal concludes with white Omi rice grown by the chef’s uncle in Hira, served steaming in Shigaraki clay pots. With his friendly demeanour, the chef is often seen deep in conversation with guests.

Omakase dishes reflect the turning of the seasons; hassun platters convey the month’s events and customs. Dedicated to fresh-from-the-kitchen deliciousness, white rice is served the moment it’s cooked. A generous assortment of accompaniments, such as dried mullet roe, dried baby sardines with pickled plum and savoury seaweed paste, brings joy. ‘Yui’ is short for ‘yuiitsu-muni’, or ‘one and only’. Unique cuisine and unmatched décor captivate diners.

One of Miyawaki’s strengths is the menu’s deft sense of rhythm—white fish tsukuri served with salted kombu, for example, or fruit and yuba made into a smooth surinagashi soup. The use of Kagawa wagyu reflects the chef’s wish to support his home region, featuring in heartier dishes such as charcoal-grilled wagyu and cutlets. The generous number of dishes is another pleasure, and the easy banter between the couple helps put guests at ease. Guests leave feeling both full and content.

Tempura kaiseki, inherited from the chef’s grandfather. Japanese cuisine expresses the turning of the seasons. Tempura is fried one item at a time in canola oil, with a thin, lightly seasoned coating. Dipping sauce is served warm; tofu in a deep-fried style preserves the grandfather’s methods. Dressing tempura items in chopped onions and mustard is the Tenjaku style. Feeling that the afternotes should be light, the meal ends with white rice cooked in clay pots.