Nihonbashi Kakigara Ryokan

This self-taught master of tempura was captivated by its craft of deep-frying and the pursuit of flavour. He hones his technique by attuning his senses to the batter’s consistency, the precise temperature of the oil and the crackle as it fries. Some ingredients may be cooked at lower temperatures, or steamed, drawing out or retaining moisture. Careful control of the Maillard reaction lends each piece a fragrant, golden crust. His distinctive tempura, which evolves day by day, is not to be missed.

Tempura pieces are deep-fried in high heat to draw out moisture for a fragrant coating. Shrimp are served two pieces in succession, fried at different temperatures to contrast the texture of rare and medium. Depending on availability, you might receive two kinds of squid, each imparting a different flavour. On the wall hangs a work of calligraphy — a gift from his mentor — casting a quiet but discerning eye over the apprentices at work. It reads ‘Menkyo Kaiden’: ‘attain full mastery of the arts of our trade’. The words seem to whisper, ‘Catch up, and surpass me.’

The motto on the noren, ‘After having tempura, finish with soba’, declares the personality of Sonoji. The chef learned the arts of both soba and tempura when he ran a shop in his native Shizuoka. For tempura pieces, he focuses on the bounty of Shizuoka’s Suruga Bay and traditional Edo seafood. Vegetables shipped directly from farmers accentuate each season. The soba served at the end of the meal is topped with kakiage of sakura shrimp, ‘the jewel of Suruga Bay’. The unique menu reflects each stage on the chef’s gastronomic journey.

A man of few words, the chef fixes his attention on his grill. He focuses on every detail of yakitori—the state of the charcoal, how the skewers are assembled and grilled—pursuing the subtleties of a cuisine. His favoured type of chicken is game fowl, prized for its supple texture and rich flavour. It is seasoned with a salt base and modulated with added chicken fat or vinegar, then wreathed in smoke as it cooks on the grill. Skewers are interspersed with chicken-based snacks such as cold chicken breast and mincemeat potato salad. A procession of dishes of lively originality.

Taking pride in domestic ingredients, the restaurant presents a distinctly Japanese approach to French cuisine. Dishes are light, with restrained use of fats and oils in line with modern tastes. Seasonal menus highlight fruits such as peaches and strawberries from local farmers, making the most of their natural character. Courses featuring sweetfish, chestnuts and mushrooms are also tempting. ‘La Paix’ means peace, expressing a wish for a harmonious table where producers and chef come together in mutual understanding through food.

A sign with a crane’s head in profile against the sun marks the modern Japanese exterior. Enter the dining room, and piped jazz music fills an interior decorated with Western paintings. Red and white keynotes in the décor denote the rising sun. Cuisine is ‘modern classic’, a theme born of the sensibility the chef cultivated overseas. The aim is to offer modulation in temperature, beguiling aromas, and a light, comfortable feeling after dining. Refined items of refreshing originality suggest the future of Japanese cuisine.

The chef defends the traditions and skills of Edo-style sushi while showing creativity with some innovations of his own. Japanese halfbeak and horse mackerel are accented with ginger and mirin–soy reduction; simmered conger eel is served both salted and dipped in eel sauce for taste comparison. Nigiri is shaped using rice seasoned with red vinegar—a showcase of techniques cultivated over years of experience. Treading the path of the sushi chef was a dream in his teenage years. Steady devotion to craft is a lesson learned from sushi.