The Mulian Hotel of Hangzhou Xixi Lingyin

After honing his skills in a number of prestigious kitchens, chef Alan Yu took on this atmospheric restaurant in 2022. The six tables are enclosed by heavily textured stone walls that afford much privacy. There is one private room for ten diners, with multimedia projections for an immersive experience. They serve a single tasting menu at lunch and dinner, with courses rooted in French tradition and boosted by subtle Chinese twists.

Nothing speaks of the ethos of this restaurant serving Wenzhou and Taizhou dishes more eloquently than its name – yes, freshness is key. The freshest seafood from southern Zhejiang, such as razor clams, live oysters and mud whelks are prepared in myriad ways. The springy fishcake bursts with seafood umami. The duck soup with Chinese herbal medicine is both tasty and nourishing. The dim sum, eg rice cake or wheat cake, are rustic and comforting.

Ru Yuan stands amid lush vegetation. Though the menu seems to feature familiar dishes like Xihu fish in vinegar sauce or sautéed shrimps with Longjing tea leaves, each one has been extensively fine-tuned and tweaked. The chef’s personal character shines through in the meticulous details. The gold medal braised pork exudes winey aromas; the pork is sliced thinly and shaped into a pagoda for perfect texture and exquisite plating.

Set in a luxury lakeside hotel, amid ponds and manicured gardens, this handsome restaurant is depicted by a classical Chinese vibe. The kitchen team sources seasonal ingredients from all over China to craft Zhejiang neo-classics with a modern twist. Meticulously sliced and perfectly textured, the braised pork belly is well worth the wait. The dim sum lunch is also popular: try crabmeat and roe xiao long bao or sticky rice roll.

Close to Lingyin Temple and Amanfayun resort, this rustic-style restaurant has a serene vibe. On the menu, classic Jiangzhe dishes get a refined makeover with some creative and surprising combinations. The signature double-boiled deboned chicken with termite mushrooms is loaded with deep flavours. The signature rice cake in chopped crab sauce is another standout. House-brewed fruit wines, such as bayberry, plum and lychee, are also worth a try.

Slightly off the beaten track, the wood- and bamboo-rich interior exudes a rustic, farmhouse feel. Similarly, farm-style cooking from the Qiandao Lake region defines the menu, showcasing ingredients like dried bamboo shoot, free-range chicken, river fish and foraged greens. Sautéed fiddlehead with cured ham packs big crispy flavours. Thick rice soup is loaded with tofu, chillies, garlic, pork intestine and dried fiddlehead, boasting deep umami.

The Zen-inspired, wood-rich room overlooks a serene Japanese rock garden. It serves an eclectic plant-based menu that draws on both Chinese traditions and global influences, featuring top-notch organic produce and combinations that spin with the seasons. In the open kitchen by the entrance, hearty soups are simmered over charcoal – try their hazelnut burdock soup. Dim sum like dark rye wontons are best enjoyed with silky hazelnut-brown rice milk.