Omotesando 2BR in Minato

Shinobu Namae welcomes guests in the spirit of ‘ichiza-konryu’, the philosophy that a restaurant is built on connections among chefs, staff, guests and food producers. The gastronomy and culture of Japan are here expressed through prix fixe menus. After the aperitif, the steaming hot risotto arrives―its inspiration drawn from the freshly cooked rice in 'chakaiseki' and brimming with the seasonal bounty of both mountain and sea. ‘Artisanal Vegetables’, the signature dish, is an homage to farmers. Weak matcha tea, borrowed from the etiquette of the Sowa tea ceremony, signals the meal’s end.

The framed motto reads, roughly, ‘Begin at the start, and when you get to the end, begin again with the spirit of the novice.’ Taking to heart this aphorism of tea master Sen no Rikyū, the chef toils at his craft with the sincerity of a beginner. He encountered this spirit in Kyoto, where he learned the art of chakaiseki. Rice is served the moment it is ready, so guests can observe the changes in it as the steam billows. Handmade sweets conclude the meal, following the etiquette of the wabicha style of the tea ceremony. Strong matcha also reflects the essence of the Way of Tea.

Takuto Murota procures ingredients himself, hunting game in the mountains and growing vegetables in his home garden. Harmonious coexistence with nature is the theme of his cooking and nowhere is this conviction more evident than in his game dishes. Meat is grilled, bones and entrails made into sauces; nothing edible is wasted. Venison blood macarons have become emblematic of LATURE. Classic cuisine with a touch of modern sensibility conveys respect for life.

‘Hakuun’ is a Zen term meaning ‘white cloud’, denoting a spirit of flowing leisurely along without worldly attachment. The name proclaims the restaurant’s flexible approach to Japanese cuisine. Fragrance and temperature are prized. Bonito is shaved and dashi drawn before guests’ eyes. Wanmono is served at the perfect moment, when harmony between broth and main ingredient reaches its fullest expression. Beef and game, char-grilled and straw-roasted, display originality and skill. Norms are observed while evolution is encouraged.

MONOLITH links the splendour of classic cuisine to the future. Pastry-wrapped meat symbolises this connection – the diner can choose from several types. Hewing close to time-honoured recipes, beef and lamb are dressed in a Madeira wine and truffle sauce, while pigeon is prepared in a rich salmis. Sauce is assiduously reduced and poured unstintingly, in true orthodox style. Respect for tradition and the classics, eloquently expressed through cooking.

As a boy, Chef Kenichi Nemoto was an enthusiastic angler, and seafood is the focus of the prix fixe menus he arranges. To ensure variety, Nemoto varies his preparation styles: frites, soups, butter roasting, and so on. In gratitude to the natural world of sea and mountain where he encounters his ingredients, he wastes nothing. The chef is earnest in his relations with producers, such as building bonds of trust with the fishermen of Shimoda.

The movements are those of one immersed in the world of nigiri. On the fingertips of the left hand balances a piece of fish; clutched in the right, a fistful of sushi rice; the tip of the forefinger applies wasabi. Pushing, occasionally pulling, and scoring in delicate strokes, the single-edged knife crafts hidden incisions to help flavour soak in and heat travel through. Gracefully flowing motion, fine-tuned through daily practice, is the simplicity that holds countless truths. The spirit of nigirizushi is in capable hands with Shintaro Suzuki.