Atour Hotel Nanjing Drum Tower North Zhongshan Road

Chef Liang's career spans three decades and includes stints at famous establishments in Macau. Here, he gives Cantonese classics a makeover with condiments from his birthplace of Shunde, for instance salted kohlrabi in sautéed baby lobster with radish cake, and Chinese olive kernels in sweet and sour pork. The Cantonese barbecue is a highlight; the crispy-skin chicken with silky, juicy flesh also tends to sell out. Pre-order to avoid missing out.

The views of Xuanwu Lake and Mt Zijin are beautiful to behold, but the light-filled open kitchen, where the experienced chef prepares updated Huaiyang and Nanjing classics as well as seasonal dishes, also catches the eye. The crystal pork aspic boasts meaty flavour and a bouncy texture, with vinegar pearls providing mini explosions of tartness. The thinly shredded tofu in umami-laden Wensi tofu soup with crabmeat is testament to impressive knife skills.

This unassuming-looking joint in a residential building has been in operation for over 20 years and locals are hooked on the home-style Jiangzhe dishes. With about 40 items on the menu, it's all killer, no filler. Top picks include "ruan dou" rice paddy eel served in a sizzling pot – incredible wok hei marries scallion aromas, deep umami and peppery warmth. The brine-poached pork intestine features bouncy meat on a bed of shredded tofu skin.

Trained in Huaiyang cuisine, the owner applies the same level of care to preparing his noodles. Suzhou-style noodles work magic with Nanjing-style marinated meats in his signature beef brisket and tendon noodle soup – incredibly tender meat in an umami-laden broth made fresh daily from beef bone. Alternatively, you can ask for the "dry" version tossed in sauces. The sweet and sour pork ribs are another must-try, delivering depth and sweetness.

For almost 40 years, this small halal shop has won the hearts of locals with its well-made beef dishes. Potstickers are the must-try, seducing with crisp charred bottom, plump juicy beef filling and tempting scallion aromas. Beef wontons are little bombs bursting with meaty umami in a translucent velvety skin, served in a peppery beef broth. Other braised beef cuts and offal are also flavoursome, tender, and just the ticket with all kinds of noodles.

The owner's father was a chef at Jiming Restaurant, an iconic Nanjing establishment. Having inherited his skill for making authentic Suzhou-style soup dumplings, she opened this no-frills shop in a residential neighbourhood in 2012. On the concise menu, the handmade soup dumplings with thin skin and juicy, mildly sweet pork filling are the main event. Regulars also opt for pork wonton soup. Closes at 2pm. Arrive early to avoid disappointment.

Now run by the third-generation owner, this family business opened its doors in 1959. The decor is no great shakes, but authentic old-time Nanjing flavours, generous portions and wallet-friendly prices have won it acclaim. Be sure to try their hand-made egg-coated beef potstickers – juicy, aromatic and nicely caramelised, they are a must! The white silver carp head soup in claypot with tofu and wood ear fungus boasts contrasting textures.