Suzhou Goethe Hotel Apartment Jinji Lake Branch

Perched on the shore of Jinji Lake, this restaurant champions a modern take on Suzhou cuisine that shows restraint in the use of oil and seasoning. Prices are reasonable considering the scenic setting and remarkable food quality. The signature lion's head meatball soup is made with Berkshire pork, longsnout catfish and water chestnuts, delivering a bouncy texture and crunch. Reservations are only accepted for private rooms and the lakeside terrace.

Tucked away in the Pingjiang historic quarter, this restaurant was remodelled from an ancient mansion encompassing the quintessence of classical Suzhou garden and architecture. Similarly, the season-driven menu is based heavily on Suzhou culinary traditions, enlivened by modern twists. Mantis shrimps with soft roe are dressed in fermented rice lees marinade and topped with caviar. The duck soup with ham and fox nuts presents rich flavours and deep umami.

This shop is famed for its Aozao noodle soup, a Kunshan speciality and designated as intangible cultural heritage. Just a stone's throw from Pingjiang historic quarter, the restaurant is clean and cosy, albeit not particularly spacious. The noodles, cooked al dente, come with your choice of one or two toppings, such as braised pork, duck or fried eel strips – the most popular and loaded with umami. The red broth is flavoursome and sweet.

A whitewashed two-storey building with a tiled roof is home to this reincarnation of a noodle stall founded in 1931. The delightfully ornate interior pays homage to traditional Chinese decor. Suzhou noodles are either served in a soy-based or clear broth, or tossed in sauces. There are tens of toppings to choose from – if in doubt, go for any of the popular combinations. The shrimp trio with shrimps, their roe and tomalley is too good to be missed.

With a red façade and a cheeky sculpture of a ‘squirrel’ mandarin fish by its door, you cannot fail but notice A Cheng. Since 1999, it has been famous not only for fish, but also Suzhou classics like sweet and sour pork ribs – tender pork in a tangy sauce with spot-on acidity. The sautéed white assortment delivers varied textures with pork tripe, chicken, bamboo shoot and shrimps, while the peppery kick brings out the umami.

This restaurant on the shore of Jinji Lake affords stunning views. Live Pingtan and Kunqu performances are a nod to Suzhou culture, but the theatrics continue offstage: The fried sheefish with shrimp roe served in a metre-long plate is quite a spectacle. The flesh is tender and finely textured, in stark contrast with the thin, crispy scales. Fox nut sweet porridge or square cakes with red date filling make for a perfect sweet finale.

This shop has been selling pan-fried buns for over two decades. Now with a pair of branches in town, it is a household name beloved by locals. The queue may be off-putting, but rest assured that the buns – with fluffy dough, crispy bases and soupy fillings – are well worth the wait. The pork version may be hugely popular, but the vegan buns with Indian aster and dried tofu are incredibly aromatic. Try the taro balls in osmanthus sweet soup, too.