YOYOGI PARK HOTEL

Japan and Portugal built a friendship during the Nanban trading era that has never faltered. The two countries share a culinary culture of fish and rice and a love of local cooking enjoyed at the family table. Items served include tempura octopus, char-grilled sardines, takikomi-gohan and gruel-like risotto. There’s also an extensive menu of à la carte options. Like the Portuguese wine, this fare is meant to be shared.

The round logo on the tabletop menu encapsulates the chef’s vision. The varying thickness of the line suggests contrasts between sharp and subtle flavours; the circle declares that the entire prix fixe menu expresses the cuisine as a whole. Sauces and cooking focus on the classic; the fascination with ingredients is a trait cultivated during the chef’s apprenticeship in France. The combination of the chef’s learned skills and passion for cuisine gives rise to a style all his own.

The chef’s grandparents’ house once stood on this land. He harboured a lifelong dream of becoming a sushi artisan; the first knife he ever held was a gift from his grandfather. Never forgetting the spirit of the novice, the chef takes an honest, no-nonsense approach to his ingredients. “Letting the ingredients do the talking is not the same as doing nothing,” he says—and indeed, the chef devotes great time and effort to food preparation. As an apprentice, he learned from his mentor that cooking means thinking for yourself. The work of the old days inspires today’s creativity.

Chef Shinsuke Ishii brings the passion of the producers to your table with his unique recipes. Using underutilised fish species and local ingredients, he passionately conveys human connections. The fish wrapped in pie pastry, resembling taiyaki, hides a playful twist within its sophistication. The chef personally serves his creations, and the whole team unites to engage with guests. The dining experience is filled with energy and a sense of togetherness.

A place to enjoy organic wine and bistro fare. The blackboard menu is filled with charcuterie such as salami and rillettes, a plentiful serving of crudités, and steak frites. Portions of this classic French cuisine are generous, perfect for sharing a plate. Signatures of wine growers who have visited the restaurant hang on the wall, telling a tale of ongoing exchange.

The chef is of the view that soba’s deliciousness is determined by its flour. He grinds husked buckwheat both from his garden and from farmers in Ibaraki Prefecture, catching every iota of the fresh-ground aroma. Coarse ground seiro (soba served on bamboo wicker) is full of wild flavour. Tofu soba, inspired by staff meals, and hot seiro with hot tsuyu sauce and beaten egg, are unique taste experiences. Evening service is prix fixe only, with treats such as buckwheat mash and rolled omelettes included.

The concept is ‘neo-machichuka’, ‘machichuka’ denoting an unpretentious neighbourhood Chinese restaurant and ‘neo’ referencing an upgrade for modern tastes. A culinary tune-up, so to speak, with the accent on changing aromas and textures. Red sea-bream salad, for example, is dressed with scorched rice for a smoky fragrance. Mouth-watering chicken, prepared in black vinegar to deepen the flavour, accentuates red pepper and nutty texture. Menu items are reassuringly familiar, yet each recipe harbours a novel twist.