Ryokan Harimaya

The house began life as a travelling fishmonger, carrying fish from Wakasa Bay to scattered markets, then gradually transitioned into a restaurant. The sixth-generation head, Motokazu Nakamura, took over the reins having been the only one entrusted with the craft he learned at his father’s side. For the white miso zoni, he only uses water drawn from a well on the premises to dissolve the miso. Sake-grilled tilefish is doused in sake multiple times, piling flavour on top of flavour. The chef tends the kitchen with his son, who trained abroad, passing skills and spirit from one generation to the

The aesthetic of ‘wabi-sabi’, restraint and impermanence, breathes in the walls of this veteran ryotei. The garden of moss-covered stone lanterns and washbasins, channels flowing with clear streams from Lake Biwa and a still, quiet tea arbour all give it a shadowed atmosphere. Hyotei eggs are a tradition handed down through generations from the founder. Eiichi Takahashi changed the dashi from dried bonito to dried tuna; tomato and soy sauce gracing Akashi sea bream sashimi is a permutation courtesy of the current chef, Yoshihiro Takahashi. Over the years, layers of innovation build up to cater

To improve himself, the chef strives to master the arts of tea ceremony, flower arrangement and calligraphy. Those traditional arts and forms are represented by the ideal of ‘shin-gyo-so’—formal, semi-cursive and cursive forms of writing, the first being the most orthodox and the last being the freest, with semi-cursive in between. The principle of shin-gyo-so is to preserve the essentials while giving rein to imagination. The chef follows another credo, the Zen principle of ‘sokkon’, or savouring the moment and banishing worldly thoughts. The chef pays attention to every detail, from cuisine

The counter was lacquered by the couple who run the restaurant as a wish for its enduring prosperity. The sign is a memento handwritten for them by the monk of Daitokuji Temple, to which the couple regularly journey to draw water. To impart the flavour of each ingredient, the chef follows a creed of simple, honest preparation. His talents are on full display in the Kyoto cuisine he studied so diligently. The meal closes with handmade Japanese confectioneries. As a devotee of the Omote Senke school of tea ceremony, the chef serves thin tea, which he prepares himself as a token of gratitude.

The chef is dedicated to bringing the natural flavours of his ingredients to life, and his char-grilling technique embodies that approach. Fresh from the kitchen brazier wafts aromas of wagyu beef and eel patiently grilled over bincho charcoal, bearing witness to the chef’s finesse. The meal concludes with a remarkable trio of clay-pot rices—plain, mountain delicacies, and seafood. Enjoy flavours of the season to your heart’s content.

A return to the origins of French cuisine. To sublimate the classics, the chef pores over old cookbooks and interprets their recipes for modern ingredients and environments, giving free rein to his curiosity with wine, butter and sauces pungent with spices. He emphasises herbs picked in the morning in Oharano and ingredients from around Kansai, expressing in food his conversations with producers. ‘Droit’ means ‘straight ahead,’ and that’s the steady course this restaurant charts.

The restaurant is temporarily closed. It's planned to reopen in September. Shizuo Miyamoto’s quest is for his own style of Chinese cooking with a seasonal aesthetic. Fish in season is stir-fried with chilli peppers; spring rolls are wrapped in three types of ingredients, so each mouthful tastes different from the one before. Counter seating, right in front of the kitchen, builds diners’ anticipation amidst the clatter of woks and aroma of food. At ‘Kyo Seika,’ graciously hosted by the Miyamoto couple, lively conversation between the veteran chef and his guests imparts joy to the meal.