Hanowood Homestay

Now with a two-storey expansion and lush courtyard, English-speaking staff and a photo menu, this vintage tea house is more tourist-friendly. It retains its North Vietnamese charm with antique decor, artwork and a rustic elegance, and continues to impart the essence of Vietnamese cuisine. Highlights include chả ốc (ham with periwinkle snails) served with herbs, vegetables, vermicelli and fish sauce, and the subtle crab soup with malabar spinach in a clear broth.

Gia đình, meaning "family", is a reference to chef Sam Tran and partner Long Tran's longing for their homeland during their years working abroad. The restaurant decor draws inspiration from the Temple of Literature just across the road. A single tasting menu is offered, showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients and drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of traditional Vietnamese cuisine. Deceptively complex, the beautifully crafted dishes showcase well-judged combinations of subtle flavours, with acidity and texture playing prominent roles.

Housed in a century-old villa, Hà Thành Mansion spans three uniquely designed floors, each radiating artistic charm. The diverse menu, crafted with locally sourced ingredients to guarantee freshness, celebrates Northern Vietnamese cuisine. Standout dishes include the grilled black pork with galangal, notable for its golden crust and hint of ginger. The cocktail bar at the entrance is the perfect spot for a drink before or after your meal.

Buddhist art and statues infuse the space at Ưu Đàm with a calming, Zen atmosphere. Combining Vietnamese, Western and Thai influences, the vegetarian menu is anchored in tradition but is also mindful of nutritional balance. The stir-fried mushrooms and tofu paired with a crisp girdle cake is mildly spicy with complex layers of flavours; top-notch fresh ingredients shine throughout. The juice-based cocktails complete the vibrant, nutrient-rich meal.

Established in 2009 and named after its founder, Nguyệt, this chicken phở specialist draws a loyal crowd of locals and visitors. The recently renovated space is cleaner and more comfortable, and the blue-and-white façade makes it easy to find. Choose from various chicken cuts, with the tender thigh especially good in both soup and dry noodles. Open until midnight, it is a popular late-night spot.

One of three branches in Hanoi, this small phở eatery enjoys a fine reputation, but beware of imitations in the city. The menu offers 10 impressive phở options, including tái and chin (brisket), nạm (flank beef) and bắp trần (beef fillet). A competent team operates the compact corner kitchen, which is visible through a glazed partition. The phở itself is hearty and supremely refreshing with tender pieces of beef that melt in the mouth.

At nearly 40 years old, this gem in Hanoi’s Old Quarter is popular for its array of eel dishes — cold or stir-fried, served with vermicelli in soup, as well as in congee and spring rolls. In winter, a steaming bowl of vermicelli with crisp, shredded eel is hard to beat; in summer, a refreshing salad is a must-try.