Dinas Castle Inn (The Dragons Back)

Three converted sheds hidden away in the heart of town play host to this bright, airy restaurant with an attractive summer courtyard for alfresco dining. The menu lists an enticing, seasonally changing selection of well-priced small plates and larger sharing dishes. Robust, satisfying flavours abound across the cooking, starting strong with the excellent sourdough and Marmite butter. The team are welcoming and friendly, and their operation also includes a coffee shop and deli on the High Street.

Nestled in a lush valley bordered by the Black Mountains, this former drovers' inn is separated from Hay-on-Wye by a six-mile single-track road. It retains a homely charm, boasting flagstone floors, slate walls and open fires. Unfussy, ingredient-led cooking is natural, wholesome and full of flavour, with meats from the owners’ farm, homemade charcuterie and a traditional roast on Sundays. Low intervention wines feature alongside a fine selection of beers. Book one of the cabins to allow more time for countryside exploring.