Commune by the Great Wall, in the Unbound Collection by Hyatt

The owner opened this joint in early 2000s to serve signature dishes from his hometown of Ningbo, especially seafood – his close connections with fishermen back home mean he gets the freshest catch shipped to him daily. Pick from the fish tank, or try specialities such as oil-blanched river shrimps seasoned with a dash of vinegar and grated ginger. Hairtail cooked in myriad ways is also popular, perfect with house-made waxberry juice.

Via the grand entrance with a retro vibe, diners are escorted into a lofty dining room on level 2. Painstakingly crafted Beijing classics define the extensive menu, much of which dates back to the Qing Dynasty. The crispy duo blanched in oil manifests expert judgment of heat – pork tripe and chicken gizzards are both perfectly cooked. Thinly sliced smoked pork head meat is buttery and smoky. Round off with artisan desserts, like rose puff pastry or split pea cake.

For almost 20 years, diners have been flocking here for authentic Hunanese fare. Head of organic bighead carp is traditionally steamed with heaps of chopped chillies, but you can also opt for the variation that uses two kinds of chillies, or have it braised with perilla leaves. Soft and umami-laden, the fried duck in Yongzhou style is perfumed in litsea oil. Snacks like stinky tofu and mugwort dumplings are also popular. Expect to queue at mealtimes.

With signage inscribed by the younger brother of Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, circa 1921, this state-owned restaurant is a real treasure. Dark wood is a prominent decorative feature, while red tablecloths lend it a rustic, classic vibe. Since 1997, diners have been coming to the current location to enjoy its authentic, no-frills Huaiyang cooking, with dishes like scorched eel with garlic and soy. Only private rooms can be booked ahead.

Exquisite artwork and elaborate wainscoting set the scene for a dining experience that is the epitome of stylish, even down to the hand-painted tableware. The restaurant prefers to customise menus to diners’ tastes ahead of time, but à la carte choices also abound. Top notch ingredients are deftly crafted with spot-on seasoning and outstanding wok hei. During the mushroom season, try the sautéed lurid bolete with wrinkly chillies.

The owner has paid tribute to his ethnic roots by naming his restaurant, La Roba, after a subgroup of the Nuosu tribe in Yunnan. The exotic ethnic flair is manifest on every level from the decor and artwork to the waiters’ outfits and background music. The menu features all Yunnan’s classic dishes, such as the deliciously chewy millefeuille pea flour pancake. The Dali-style fish braised in pickled papaya is tart, fruity and appetising. Expect to queue at peak periods.

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