Atour Hotel Qianjiang New city South Star Bridge Hangzhou

Nestled in a cultural park, this restaurant is furnished in modern Jiangnan style – round windows, bamboo chairs and bonsai. The menu, too, is rooted in tradition but given a modern twist. Be sure to try the deep-fried stinky tofu with river shrimps; the fermented flavour adds to the overall umami. Stone pot taro is cooked with fried lard for a starchy comfort dish in autumn or winter. Also try the braised pork belly with house-made plum wine.

This restaurant started out as a noodle shop some 20 years ago. What hasn't changed is the authentic and affordable home-style Hangzhou food it serves. Browse the photos on the wall or pick something from the live fish tanks. The oil-blanched live river shrimps are fried until crispy and tossed in a sweet savoury sauce with vinegar and scallions. The steamed pork-filled tofu skin roll with dried fish is another timeless umami-laden classic.

Down an alley near the Drum Tower, a yellow flag heralds the "wonton king", priming diners for the dumpling feast to come. Having retired in 2016, the owner learnt to make wonton from scratch, before opening this shop. The filling is made in-house with freshly slaughtered (not frozen) pork; ultra fresh vegetables and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds impart extra aromas; dried shrimps add umami depth to the broth. The potstickers are tasty, too.

Born into a family of chefs, the young owner started as an apprentice and worked his way up. Exacting about his noodles, he has them tailor-made to the required texture. All the Hangzhou-style noodle dishes are made to order, featuring various toppings and sauces. His original recipe, noodles tossed in scrambled egg with a tangy sweet tomato sauce, stands out from typical pork sauces. The shrimp, eel and tomato sauce version is equally good.

The kitchen helmed by a veteran chef from Jinhua turns out traditional snacks made just like in the old days. Rest assured that all the pork is sourced from Jinhua pigs, boasting robust flavours and buttery richness. Pork and scallion stuffed flatbread, as well as scallion pork bun are both juicy and well seasoned. House-made soymilk comes in three varieties: sweet, savoury, and Jinhua’s unique savoury ginger – perfect on winter mornings.

Getting to L’éclat 19, which nestles in a wooded valley on the southern shore of West Lake, is an experience in its own right. Open for dinner only, it offers two tasting menus that keep pace with the seasons, both signed by chef Olivier Elzer. Gallic classics are given refined Chinese twists – the bread is served with butter infused with Chinese Moutai liquor. The top-notch ingredients are sourced globally, while creative sauces deliver layered flavours.

Serenity is the word that comes to mind to describe this restaurant deep in a bamboo forest. The kitchen delves into the unique flavours and terroir that set Zhejiang province apart, striking a balance between tradition and creativity. The seasonal menu changes monthly to showcase premium local produce. Mrs Song’s fish stew uses delicate, sweet yellow croakers. Finish your meal with a flourish of candied lotus root stuffed with sticky rice.