GreenTree Inn Nanjing Provincial People's Hospital Express Hotel

The views of Xuanwu Lake and Mt Zijin are beautiful to behold, but the light-filled open kitchen, where the experienced chef prepares updated Huaiyang and Nanjing classics as well as seasonal dishes, also catches the eye. The crystal pork aspic boasts meaty flavour and a bouncy texture, with vinegar pearls providing mini explosions of tartness. The thinly shredded tofu in umami-laden Wensi tofu soup with crabmeat is testament to impressive knife skills.

Now run by the third-generation owner, this family business opened its doors in 1959. The decor is no great shakes, but authentic old-time Nanjing flavours, generous portions and wallet-friendly prices have won it acclaim. Be sure to try their hand-made egg-coated beef potstickers – juicy, aromatic and nicely caramelised, they are a must! The white silver carp head soup in claypot with tofu and wood ear fungus boasts contrasting textures.

Since the 1970s, the owner has been treating customers to iconic Nanjing-style small bites at this no-frills shop. Black rice balls, the favourite breakfast for many, comprise black sticky rice with bilberry leaves and stuffed with meat. End on a sweet note with baby taro in osmanthus sweet soup thickened by lotus root starch. Glutinous rice balls in red bean soup with wine lees, and peppery beef broth are also popular.

This unassuming-looking joint in a residential building has been in operation for over 20 years and locals are hooked on the home-style Jiangzhe dishes. With about 40 items on the menu, it's all killer, no filler. Top picks include "ruan dou" rice paddy eel served in a sizzling pot – incredible wok hei marries scallion aromas, deep umami and peppery warmth. The brine-poached pork intestine features bouncy meat on a bed of shredded tofu skin.

Trained in Huaiyang cuisine, the owner applies the same level of care to preparing his noodles. Suzhou-style noodles work magic with Nanjing-style marinated meats in his signature beef brisket and tendon noodle soup – incredibly tender meat in an umami-laden broth made fresh daily from beef bone. Alternatively, you can ask for the "dry" version tossed in sauces. The sweet and sour pork ribs are another must-try, delivering depth and sweetness.

Highly experienced when it comes to Huaiyang cuisine, Chef Hou is best known for his refined, contemporary take on traditional favourites, with an emphasis on exquisite knifework and locally sourced produce in season. The braised eight-treasure pigeon with abalone – his spin on the classic duck recipe – is a cornucopia of gourmet ingredients with a rich, luscious glaze. Private rooms come with their own balconies that afford superb views.

For over 30 years, this place has been packed with wonton soup lovers throughout the day. The room has seen better days, but regulars clearly don't consider that a deal breaker. Wontons are wrapped on the spot, cooked à la minute and jazzed up by chopped chives. It's worth paying extra to add duck blood curd, intestine or liver to your wonton soup, which goes well with flatbread in either the sweet or savoury variety.