Bournemouth Carlton Hotel, BW Signature Collection

Just around the corner from the beach, behind frosted glass, is this jovial, laid-back restaurant. The décor is bright and fresh, with pictures of crashing waves on the walls and a large mobile of tiny fish hanging from the ceiling. Chef Jan imbues his ambitious tasting menu with influences from his German heritage, including family recipes like "mamma's red cabbage". Enthusiastic service from Geza illustrates the team's overall passion.

The impressive open kitchen acts almost like a stage at this passionately run restaurant, with all six tables positioned to face the chefs and a couple of front-row counter seats for those wanting the full experience. It's a family affair, with Chef Alex Naik joined by his parents and sister, who run the service. The tasting menu is filled with terse dish descriptions that underplay the ambitious and detailed creations, whose greatest strength is the high-quality ingredients, which are often local and seasonal, including some foraged elements.