PREMIUM TOJI

His father was an artist specialising in maki-e, gold and silver decorations on lacquer; his mother the latest in a long line of tea-ceremony instructors. Overseas, he spread the word about the virtues of shojin-ryori. ‘En’ means ‘swallow’; the chef named his restaurant for this migratory bird in reference to himself, a man who had lived away from Japan but had come home to Kyoto. The menu is broad in scope and includes some dishes incorporating Western elements. The swallow is said to bring good fortune, and the chef’s personality and the reputation of his cooking bring customers flocking to

The chef, a native of the Goto Islands, weaves the flavours of Nagasaki into his prix fixe menus. He beguiles his guests with the fish of his native region, served as sashimi and wanmono. ‘Hatoshi’ is minced shrimp between two slices of crispy fried toast; Goto udon is a beloved local old favourite. With cultivated kappo technique, the chef turns common dishes into pictures of elegance. ‘Hakuran’ is an amalgam of his parents’ names. Sharing the charms of Nagasaki with the diners of Kyoto is an act of gratitude to his hometown.

The chef oversees every aspect of the menu, which changes monthly. The restaurant evolves from moment to moment as seasons shift and the day’s ingredients are chosen; this impermanence inspires the passion and the flavours at the core of the chef’s creativity. He embraces the principle of shuhari, the three stages of mastery: first, master the basics; next, break the mould with creativity; finally, set out on your own to blaze a new trail. Guest and chef merge time and space, sharing a mutually felt joy.

Meika Hoshino breathes her own creativity into Korean royal court cuisine, which she studied in Seoul. Prix fixe offerings follow ‘yakushoku-dogen’, the idea that diet has an essential role in maintaining good health. The double-tiered food box filled with multi-coloured items is an inspiration drawn from Korea’s courtly dining tables. Namul and kimchi are prepared with Kyoto vegetables; cuisine from the early Joseon dynasty comes from a time before chilli peppers were introduced. A dialogue between traditional cooking and modern sensibility brings Korean culinary culture to a wider audience.

Seasonal notes and playfulness abound in the menu. Simple preparations etch themselves in the memory. During the Gion Festival, SEN displays a replica of the Naginata Boko, the first float in the festival’s parade, reflecting the city’s traditional events and customs. At the close of the meal, choose from an assortment of comfort foods such as mackerel sushi, chazuke and ramen. The chef learned to ‘read the room’ as an apprentice and is known to change ingredients and preparation styles based on guests’ conversation. The spirit of graceful service, expressed in cooking.

The next generation of chefs apply themselves diligently to every task from cooking to service, following the proprietor’s teaching to always be sincere. The chef devotes himself to his craft, staying close to the basics while feeding his curiosity with inventive combinations. Vegetables such as peas, corn, ginkgo nuts and turnip are kneaded into baked sesame tofu, heralding the arrival of the season.

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.